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· JUSTA MEMBER
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If it were in my place, I would use a 2X4 as a spacer.

Screw / bolt the 2X4 to the posts at the desired height, and angle, then screw / bolt that handrail to the 2X4.

This makes a strong handrail with the addition of the easy hand grip access.


ED
 

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The link shows frame and hand rail in one. I guess the top follows the rule that hand should be able to grasp "around" the rail. So you can attach that lumber directly to the post as long as the rounded top is above the post. Notching the 4x4 post would also work. I'm not sure if I would be confident about that hand rail. The round part to the frame is routed out to about 3/4" and pt lumber can crack along that part. Over time, it can become a liability. I might drill and put 4" screws every 6 inches as reinforcement. Double dip screws and cap.
If you're using it as handrail only, spacer can be 2x, metal spacer and bolt, handrail bracket, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i had a flash of design genius, 5 mins before logging on.

i am going to find just the right diameter PVC pipe, 3"ish. and make spacers with that.
paint em black. then predrill and use these spax screws i have.

any other ideas are welcome.
 

· JUSTA MEMBER
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The PVC for electrical conduit comes in a darker shade, that might suffice as dark enough.

Of course it costs more than white water pipe, but is an alternative to paint that will need repainted too often.

Collars made for connecting the stuff might be the perfect distance for offsetting the rail.


ED
 

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I made a similar style handrail out of a piece of 2 x 8 Fir and a 2 x 4.
Set up an angled fence on the table saw and lower the blade so you cut about a quarter inch deep. Several passes while raising the blade on each pass until you get the profile you want. Flip the board and repeat.
You might need to practice until you get the angle right for the profile you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i got one mounted. it was just a quicky job to get a visual.
i used 1 1/2" pvc pipe about 1"+ and painted. with the spax 5" 1/4" washer head screws (i LOVE these srews !). this rail is pretty darned solid.

what i don't like is the end cuts. so if anyone has any ideas to make the ends look better ...

btw, that is 1 (of 2) of my back yard buddies. he is my good neighbors.
Nemo is his name.

notice how i know how to rotate my pics.
 

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1-1/2" min. between post/rail as per link, though I wouldn't worry too much as your nosing won't meet safety code either... ;-) typical cat- "I'm not moving until I want to..."

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wooden ball finials.

With the screw in fastener screwed into the ends of those round rail tops.


Ain't NEMO a cool buddy?

Bet he keeps the mice and birds away.



ED
what ? i'm talking about the cut ends of the hand rail. i'm not crazy about how i cut them. they can be cut to look better, i just don't know how.

1-1/2" min. between post/rail as per link, though I wouldn't worry too much as your nosing won't meet safety code either... ;-) typical cat- "I'm not moving until I want to..."

Gary
yeah, they were just practice pieces. nosing , whats that ?


Nemo, he's a cool old dude. i bet he was a "Stray Cat" when he was younger.
i have seen 2 mice in the 4 years i been here. i guess Nemo hasn't seen the last one (just the other day) yet. i have a bird feeder, that is active. but other than a few bunnies, not much wildlife :sad:
 

· JUSTA MEMBER
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I meant the ball finials right on the ends to look like extensions of the rounded top of the board.

To look like the ends were cut and shaped with the ball as a knob.

You could also use a router to cove mold the ends a bit, or round over if that suits your taste better.

ED
 
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