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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am about to re-stain my deck with a solid stain (paint). The last time I stained it I put a Thompson seal on it to make it last longer, but I might as well have kept my money as Thompson lasted maybe a week.

Any recommendations out their on what product to use on my deck for a long lasting finish?
 

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Sorry....but with Thompson's on there, you'll HAVE TO sand it all out.
NO other choice...Period.
I can't stand selling the stuff, and I TELL people that! Some just gotta have it tho.....

The waxes/stearates in most Thompson's stains preclude other stains from lasting very long. THAT'S why all the t-sons has to be removed.
It's pretty much the same as painting a newly waxed car...

GUESS what'll happen....

It's EXACTLY why body-shops sand-down the cars!!

Faron
 

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If we can have a few days of nice weather here in NJ we can continue on our deck! Ugghhh...this is bordering ridiculous. Now that our deck was power washed (& sooooo much solid stain GONE...) it will not stop raining & we can't get an edge up on sanding the whole thing!!

Pls, pls Mother nature, be kind to central NJ!! I need some sunshine this week, so DH can take off and sand 700+ sq ft of deck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Moat of the Thompson seal is gone, but I'll give it a good once over with a sanding pad before I clean it off and stain it. What type sealer is recommended after staining. Not real happy with the 1 month that Thompson brand lasted, total waste.
 

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If you put a quality stain on it, you really don't need an additional sealer. I prefer SW's Deckscapes but there are many other top staining products on the market. Remember, horizontal surfaces take a beating so don't expect to get 5 or 6 years out of the finish. Two to three is max........
 

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You have to realize that a paint (which consists of resin and pigments) will essentially dry, then sit on the surface of your outdoor deck. Once dried that film will expand and contract with the weather - but probably will do so at a different rate than the wood will, and therefore be susceptible to cracking and deterioration...so unless you're prepared to repaint every year or two, stain is the way to go. But not just any stain.

Because some stains are formulated just like paint ('solid stains' spring to mind) but others are mainly dyes in a solvent. Now depending on what type of wood you have, you may need more or less of a stain made with dyes. You'll have to test first.

Stains made with dyes penetrate deeper into the wood whereas 'paints' stay on the surface.
 
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