[JNATE]

This is my first post on here.I am planning to replace an old non ledger deck at my home. I have a couple of obstacles I need ideas on how to overcome.

1. The posts are round metal posts like a lally column only without the beam plate. Instead they have welded angle iron onto the post which the beams sit on sandwiching the post with 2 through bolts at each post.

How should I go about mounting my beams to the existing posts? I really would prefer to use the existing posts because due to code for freestanding decks, the footings must be at or below finished grade. I have a basement so if I were to replace the footings I would be required to dig nearly 8 feet deep on one side of my deck.

2. It is a freestanding (non-ledger) deck but code also requires it be attached to the home to resist lateral loads. I have brick siding which everything I've read says not to bolt through brick.

Any ideas, tips, hints, or previous experiences would be very helpful.

Thank you in advance.

 

[SPS-1]

1. The posts are round metal posts like a lally column only without the beam plate. Instead they have welded angle iron onto the post which the beams sit on sandwiching the post with 2 through bolts at each post.

How should I go about mounting my beams to the existing posts?

2. It is a freestanding (non-ledger) deck but code also requires it be attached to the home to resist lateral loads.

1. We are going to need a picture, but why not mount the beam same way as before ? Just make sure the weight is sitting directly over the post --- not that the welds are taking the weight.

2. Check the wording on the code. I can understand needing to resist lateral loads, but there are ways to do it other than attaching to the house. If the steel posts are embedded in concrete, I would argue that resists lateral loads. I have an inspected free-standing deck that resists lateral loads by angle braces.

 

[JNATE]

SPS-1 thanks for the quick reply I am at work right now...we are a little slow. I'll get a picture posted when I get home. But you may be right I don't think I was interpreting the wording right on the code.

 

[3onthetree]

How should I go about mounting my beams to the existing posts?

Beam is probably 2x built-up, which means they need sistered. So even if you could hang it all off to one side of the pole, and the steel angle provides it's bearing, but the angle probably only has a 1/4" spot weld onto the pole (top & bottom of angle?) and less than a 3" leg, which an inspector may not like. Can you remove the pole or is it embedded into the concrete?

I really would prefer to use the existing posts because due to code for freestanding decks, the footings must be at or below finished grade. I have a basement so if I were to replace the footings I would be required to dig nearly 8 feet deep on one side of my deck.

Where are the footings now, and how does that get you around the deep footings?

2. It is a freestanding (non-ledger) deck but code also requires it be attached to the home to resist lateral loads. I have brick siding which everything I've read says not to bolt through brick.

At either side of the deck, you can use blocking just in those 2 spots, but it has to be done like a ledger then, and you have to do the long rod or Simpson veneer brick bracket. You can also frame an angle brace, attach lower to the foundation wall, or rely on the post bracing depending on what your inspector allows.

 

[JNATE]

3onthetree the posts are embedded in concrete and buried deep I have not verified it is actually to the finished grade but when I did dig down next to one post nearly 2 feet and never saw concrete. That was on the low side of my deck. On the high side right next to my driveway I have confirmed that the steel posts are embedded in concrete. I am only assuming the 4 other posts are as well. I've seen the brick bracket you mentioned but I would not have access to the floor joists on the inside of the house, at least without tearing out a sheet rock ceiling in the finished portion of my basement.

As for the removing the post... I can cut it down a little bit due to using 2 2x12s for my beams as opposed to the existing 2x8s.