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Deck building questions

1488 Views 20 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  ktownskier
I have a paver patio that is uneven. And, I don't like a paver patio anyways. I want to build a deck that "floats" over it. I don't want to dig up the paver stones or dig post holes. The paver stones keep down the weeds as I put down polymeric sand last year.

The deck would be attached to the house the normal way by a ledger board and joist hangers. It would be about 8" off the ground and I would have the joists supported by 4x4 ground contact treated posts cut to level as I go. And, I wouldn't need a step as the deck is 1 step up from the ground.

The deck would extend out from the house a little over 8' and run along the house about 25'.

Does this make sense?

What else should I do to make it work? Besides digging post holes.
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Sounds too close to the ground which would mean little airflow and an advanced rate for the wood to rot.
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Is the 8" off the ground a typo? If not, it sounds like you plan on making a ground level deck. I did one myself a few years ago. In my case there was no need to attach it to the house though. It sits on four concrete blocks in each corner. There is a sidewalk underneath that goes to the kitchen door, and after removing some grass, I leveled the dirt and then covered it with weed fabric and added a layer of fine gravel. I made sure to leave an inch of two along the bottom of the entire perimeter so that air can circulate underneath. So far there have been no issues with it. Going to scrub it with a bleach / Tide mixture on Friday when it warms up a bit for my annual spring deck cleaning.

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Sounds too close to the ground which would mean little airflow and an advanced rate for the wood to rot.
How high off the ground would it need to be? A foot? The stoop coming off of my house for my back door about 14" off the ground. Would that be high enough?

If so, I could make it be bit further out from the house and have it overhang my lawn and still have the sprinkler system work okay.
Nix the ground contact wood posts.

Use those pyramid shaped deck block supports instead. That is what they are made for.

try to have about 4 inches of airflow underneath this, to allow any accumulation of moisture, space to evaporate.


ED
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It sounds like you are planning a combination fixed/floating deck, which I'm not sure is a great idea. Depending on seasonal ground movement, you could be putting pressure on the ledger.
Why not make it full floating? +1 on the deck blocks.
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How high off the ground would it need to be? A foot? The stoop coming off of my house for my back door about 14" off the ground. Would that be high enough?

If so, I could make it be bit further out from the house and have it overhang my lawn and still have the sprinkler system work okay.
You would want the deck to be a few inches below the door. You are fighting height all the way, the last thing you want to do is extend it over dirt which would also require taller joists.

Bigger question is for you build it with 2x8 for the strength or 2x6s for the air flow. I can't answer that as we never built a deck with less than 2x10s, so I have no experience with less. I would plan on free floating as it will be sitting on the ground you are not worried about it falling anywhere.

If you go nuts with piers you could build it with 2x4s

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I thought I needed a fixed point being so close to the house. If not, then that would make it even easier. Essentially, it would just be a platform.

And nothing would be ground contact, it would all be in contact with concrete interlocking pavers.

If I put the joist 12" on center, can I use 2x6 running parralel to the house? And run the decking horizontal? That would give me airflow and keep me 8" from the pavers.
I thought I needed a fixed point being so close to the house. If not, then that would make it even easier. Essentially, it would just be a platform.

And nothing would be ground contact, it would all be in contact with concrete interlocking pavers.

If I put the joist 12" on center, can I use 2x6 running parralel to the house? And run the decking horizontal? That would give me airflow and keep me 8" from the pavers.
Turning the joists sideways like that would allow you to run the decking closer to the house but then you have figure on how you join the joists to make 25 ft.

With 12" OC you could do the decking on a 45 and extend them closer to the house while leaving the joist perpendicular to the house.
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Here is a picture of the stoop I keep referring to. It is a landing over the egress window for the basement where a bedroom could be placed. For some stupid reason the builder put the egress window below the back door on all the duplexes he built.

This is my second iteration of the stoop. It was falling apart when we moved in so I rebuilt i the first summer. I rebuilt it last summer when we put in the new back door. I moved it higher because Riley wouldn't use the new doggy door. To come in that is. She goes out fine. But won't come in. Damn dog!!

Riley is my yellow lab who is about 10 years old. We got him when we moved into this house.

Nora is my black lab. She was 9 months old when we got her. She has been with us 8 years now. And she is my ESA.

The stoop is 16" high, the step is 8" high.

Can I use 6x6x2 concrete pavers ($0.98) or 8x16x4 concrete blocks ($2.48) instead of the piers ($9.88)? I was thinking of using flashing tape where the joists would contact the blocks/pavers to help with moisture mitigation. I can place more of the blocks/pavers and keep it closer to the ground. the piers are 8" tall.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

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There is another concern, you said you had pavers, They are put down to support a load but will it stand up to a bigger load sitting on a few of them. If this was planned for the base below them might have been done more heavy duty. Maybe you would be better to have a fixed deck at 9 or 10 ft with real piers and attached to the house.

Just a thought???
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If I used 2"x4"x10' for the joists, 12" on center. And used 7"x12"x4" high concrete retaining blocks at the end, middle and center. (I would be using 2-2x4x10' to make a 20' deck, which is from the far end of the stoop to the end of the house.)

Would that be enough? Or I could use 3 for each, plus a common one in the center. I would use construction adhesive to attach the blocks to the pavers and then tapcon to attach a strap to the blocks and screw the blocks to the 2x4's. Or don't I need to bother with the construction adhesive?
If I used 2"x4"x10' for the joists, 12" on center. And used 7"x12"x4" high concrete retaining blocks at the end, middle and center. (I would be using 2-2x4x10' to make a 20' deck, which is from the far end of the stoop to the end of the house.)

Would that be enough? Or I could use 3 for each, plus a common one in the center. I would use construction adhesive to attach the blocks to the pavers and then tapcon to attach a strap to the blocks and screw the blocks to the 2x4's. Or don't I need to bother with the construction adhesive?
Maybe with 2x6 that would would work but that sounds like 45 piers or blocks.

I don't think you need glue. Do your pavers have a slope now?
2X4 are prone to warping, and your framework is not strong enough for my OK.

2X6, or 2X8, is preferable, attaching the joists to the flat blocks is a must, if you use those.

The pyramid blocks are more expensive, because they are a stable support for decking, whereas the flat ones are not very stable, they might allow the entire structure to slide around, with the frost heave that you will get.

Unless you installed those pavers poorly, their un-levelness, is evidence of frost heave there.



ED
Yes, there is a slope. I was just using the blocks as a way to lift the 2x4's off the ground to get air flow. I would use the 8x16 blocks as they could span two joists and stagger them.
Yes, there is a slope. I was just using the blocks as a way to lift the 2x4's off the ground to get air flow. I would use the 8x16 blocks as they could span two joists and stagger them.
I think we might find a better block and start thinking 2x6. :biggrin2:
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More expensive but easier to level the posts at the edge of the deck. 2x10 PT will provide for a longer span from the ledger to the perimeter beam.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-100506799-_-N
More expensive but easier to level the posts at the edge of the deck. 2x10 PT will provide for a longer span from the ledger to the perimeter beam.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-100506799-_-N
We are trying to get a greater space below the deck :wink2:
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These would work with 2x6s leaving the frame 12" high.

for levelling you would add the post piece and use hangers.

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...x4-6x6-deck-block/1794278/p-1502778698449.htm
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