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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, so before going great guns on bolting my deck ledger to the house I figured I should double check that my house does indeed have a rim joist. The attached photo shows what I found. 1/2" sheathing, then 1" more of what seems to be chip board. I am posting here in the desperate hope this might be some sort of engineered joist I can bolt my ledger to. If that seems unlikely I will have to change my design to free standing. I notice some other homes in my development all built by the same builder have decks with attached ledgers so I am holding out hope. In fact, where this deck is going there was a smaller deck that my builder constructed when the house was new. It was bolted to this "rim joist", but it was small so did not need to be up to code.

By the way, if it helps, this house is 5 years old.



Thanks.

-Eric
 

· Remodel and New Build GC
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ERIC.....I'm not an engineer

But looks to me as a closure/rim OSB board for TJ joists.

It is not as structurally strong as conventional 2X floor framing....and I won't address the code issues of ledger arguments and tie-backs, but I've seen many decks ledgered off that rim board,,, assuming there is not a special wind or loading issue involved.

Now there are many arguments for going free-standing....I honestly don't buy many of them.....but respect those who do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
ERIC.....I'm not an engineer

But looks to me as a closure/rim OSB board for TJ joists.

It is not as structurally strong as conventional 2X floor framing....and I won't address the code issues of ledger arguments and tie-backs, but I've seen many decks ledgered off that rim board,,, assuming there is not a special wind or loading issue involved.

Now there are many arguments for going free-standing....I honestly don't buy many of them.....but respect those who do.
Ah...that is good news. I will not pick up the post hold digger just yet. I will reach out to the original builder and building department to make sure, but if the wise folks here said "of COURSE you can't bolt to that...you must have post holes for brains!" then I would just start digging.

Oh and now that I know what I searching for, it looks like 1" OSB is ok per LedgerLok specs. So maybe I am good. Will verify with the builder, though.
 

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Ah...that is good news. I will not pick up the post hold digger just yet. I will reach out to the original builder and building department to make sure, but if the wise folks here said "of COURSE you can't bolt to that...you must have post holes for brains!" then I would just start digging.

Oh and now that I know what I searching for, it looks like 1" OSB is ok per LedgerLok specs. So maybe I am good. Will verify with the builder, though.
SMART...:wink2:
 

· retired framer
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Ah...that is good news. I will not pick up the post hold digger just yet. I will reach out to the original builder and building department to make sure, but if the wise folks here said "of COURSE you can't bolt to that...you must have post holes for brains!" then I would just start digging.

Oh and now that I know what I searching for, it looks like 1" OSB is ok per LedgerLok specs. So maybe I am good. Will verify with the builder, though.
Do you have access to the inside?

Where is the top of the floor inside compared to this picture?

Which direction do the floor joists go?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have access to the inside?

Where is the top of the floor inside compared to this picture?

Which direction do the floor joists go?
Well the joists are parallel at that spot, but perpendicular where my weight bearing ledger would actually go.

The floor is above my hole about 5". There is 11 3/4" between the sill plate shown in my picture and the subfloor (with the I-joists in between)
 

· retired framer
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Well the joists are parallel at that spot, but perpendicular where my weight bearing ledger would actually go.

The floor is above my hole about 5". There is 11 3/4" between the sill plate shown in my picture and the subfloor (with the I-joists in between)

Behind the rim from the inside we have installed 2x10 blocks between every other set of joists.
 

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· General contractor/carpen
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Getting better. Still have a slight limp. They will be removing the hardware in a few months. Can't happen for a year after the surgery. Most the time they can leave it in, but with my case there's some uncooperative tendons that are rubbing on the hardware.


Mike.
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· retired framer
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Getting better. Still have a slight limp. They will be removing the hardware in a few months. Can't happen for a year after the surgery. Most the time they can leave it in, but with my case there's some uncooperative tendons that are rubbing on the hardware.


Mike.
_______________
At least you are on the right side of the grass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Behind the rim from the inside we have installed 2x10 blocks between every other set of joists.
Great idea. Unfortunately (and I should have been more clear), while I have access to some of the subfloor in the basement, the area where the deck will be secured is finished (by yours truly) so I cannot (easily) add blocking.
 

· retired framer
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Great idea. Unfortunately (and I should have been more clear), while I have access to some of the subfloor in the basement, the area where the deck will be secured is finished (by yours truly) so I cannot (easily) add blocking.
@Californiadecks was suggesting this, Cut out just enough for a 2x10, install the blocks that I talked about and install the 2x10, it will be thick enough to replace the rim and the OSB sheeting and that is fine. Still water proof between this 2x10 and the ledger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you are lagging 16inch on center, where there are blocks, use lags that will tag the blocks. :wink2:
Will do. In theory the inspector is going to want to see the lags poking through.

Which will require cutting out some dry wall windows in the basement ceiling so s/he can see it =(. But that is neither here nor there.

-Eric
 
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