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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Its directly where I hoped to put stairs to a future driveway/carport. (see pic) I’m new to septic systems and don't know if possibly adding an angle/elbow would prevent access?

Also, water doesn’t drain from the back of the house well, so I plan to raise the ground level 15-20” to slope away from the house - so I need to extend the septic cleanout pipe higher above ground, which I feel I can do myself after watching vids and reading.

I don’t want to relocate where it comes out of the foundation/ground if possible, just where the access is. I'm told the tank is straight behind the house 25-30'. (I'll locate it and all pipes exactly before building)

Looking for suggestions to keep the cleanout accessible with the least amount of work/expense?


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Naildriver
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Just create a liftable panel in your decking which, when removed, will give you access to the clean out. Raising the dirt on the wall will present water problems in the crawl space if you don't apply really good waterproofing prior to backfill. So make sure that is done. The clean out is incidental and can be anywhere along the line, BUT it is always better to have it close to the house for operational ease.
 

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Exactly what I was going to say about a panel 😎

You may have to move the stairs out from the house a bit anyways so you're not tripping over the downspout and pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes an access panel - one of the stair steps maybe - is a good idea. I've never seen a tank being cleaned and ignorant of what kind of issues blocking free access (the way it is now) for a septic service might cause. (Like double price for difficult access issues?). @Nealtw - IDK how deep it goes down. I'm thinking I will need to uncover the entire pipe and tank to make sure I don't cause problems with placement of my deck posts. Yes waterproofing before raising the ground level is part of the plan.

Thanks
 

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retired framer
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Yes an access panel - one of the stair steps maybe - is a good idea. I've never seen a tank being cleaned and ignorant of what kind of issues blocking free access (the way it is now) for a septic service might cause. (Like double price for difficult access issues?). @Nealtw - IDK how deep it goes down. I'm thinking I will need to uncover the entire pipe and tank to make sure I don't cause problems with placement of my deck posts. Yes waterproofing before raising the ground level is part of the plan.

Thanks
Good plan about exposing the pipe and while you are at that install a new 2 way clean out near the front post and cap and bury the old one. 2 types of fittings.
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Naildriver
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The septic tank most likely will have two sections. One inlet where the solids and liquid enter, with a baffle from the top to just short of the bottom. The decomposition takes place here and nothing but liquid goes under the baffle and out into the drain field. Yes, having it pumped (every 5 years or so) can be expensive to dig down to the tank, remove the caps and pump it. Not sure what your tastes are, but if you install risers on the tank and a cap, the cost of pumping can go down drastically, since they don't have to "find" it and dig down each time. The caps can be about grade level and become part of the yard easy enough. No digging in the drain field area. Check with your health department. They will have a drawing of your house with the septic system and drain field for reference.

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Usually Confused
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as Joed and Chandler mentioned, you have found a clean-out plug for your septic outflow line but at some point you need to locate where your tank is. Its access lids need to remain accessible so you can have the tank pumped. Depending on where it is and where your leech field is may change you plans.
 

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Shorten the deck,

Most places will require a inspection by authorities and a permit for this work.
They will also force any upgrades so your system will meet the new code.

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Check with the health dept in your area. They should have a drawing of the tank location presented by the installer for the permit.
 
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