[NorPlan]

:vs_OMG: As mentioned in a Previous Thread / Post 1st time in the 9 Winters were in our Present Home having to deal with an Over Abundance of Condesation in the Bathroom during the Winter Months and No Bathroom Exhaust Fan.. My previous Query was wondering which route to take to Exhaust the Condensation to the Outside..

Opened up a Big Can of Worms , 1st step was to have a Look See in the Attic, that's where things have gone Downhill.. The Trap Door Jams as you Pound / Push on all sides.. Could only budge the Door a couple inches, but in doing so We noticed what looks like Black Mold & Wetness on the attic side of the Trap Door Rim.. Beauty :vs_mad: House is "L-Shaped / 938sq ft.. Any idea What kinda Costs were looking at to Rectify the Problem.. The Extreme would be having to Tear the Roof Off and Redue.. Don't think the Plastic could Survive whether it be a Contractor or Trips to Home Depot..lol. :vs_OMG: No idea if The Home Insurance would even Cover this Damage ??:surprise:

 

[oh'mike]

Before you get to frantic----post a picture of the soffit and roof.

Then a picture of the attic insulation.

Attics need air flow to stay dry---air enters the soffits---travels across the bottom of the roof sheeting--then out through a ridge vent or mushroom vents--

Part of that system is not working (or is missing) in your home.

The most common one is a person adding insulation to the attic and plugging up the soffit vents.

More info needed.

 

[NorPlan]

Before you get to frantic----post a picture of the soffit and roof.

Then a picture of the attic insulation.

Attics need air flow to stay dry---air enters the soffits---travels across the bottom of the roof sheeting--then out through a ridge vent or mushroom vents--

Part of that system is not working (or is missing) in your home.

The most common one is a person adding insulation to the attic and plugging up the soffit vents.


More info needed.

:wink2: Thanks for the Comeback, Have an Extra Pair of Hands here this Afternoon.. Going to Force the Trap Door Open and Crawl Up in the Attic to look around.. And check see if the Soffitts could be plugged from the inside.. The last time we had managed to get up in the Attic we had observed plenty of Batt Insulation.. If in Fact the Soffitts could be plugged it would have to be around the Backside of the House near the Bathroom Area..

 

[Bud9051]

Be prepared to temporarily close that hatch when done. "We noticed what looks like Black Mold & Wetness on the attic side of the Trap Door Rim" Near the hatch would typically be the last place for mold to form, thus if you are seeing it, it may be everywhere. If so, get your insurance company involved as a professional solution may be needed. Pictures of what you find.

Bud

 

[NorPlan]

. If so, get your insurance company involved as a professional solution may be needed. Pictures of what you find

Bud

If I had more Techno Where With All I'd Post a few Pictures as way of Explanation for Sure.. @Bud9051 , 10-4 The Thought of Getting the Insurance Company involved was thought of.. We are 3rd Owners , this house was originally built in 1973.. From what we have surmised looking at the ceiling a few walls had been relocated and what not.. But we managed to work the Trap Door loose and have a look see.. There is Blown In Insulation (Dirty Brown Color) got to be a 70's era Instulation. :vs_worry: There is Styrofoam ribbing coming up from the Soffitts strategically located.. We could see plenty of Daylight at the Gable Ends.. For the Most Part from what we can see it surprisingly looks to be DRY in the Attic , No Black Mold or Wetness on the Trusses.. Strange though sitting on top of the Blown In Insulation over the main part of the House is an Unopened Bale of Batten Insulation and 2 / 15ft rows of Batt Insulation spread across the attic floor :vs_worry:

 

[Bud9051]

Very good, that seems to eliminate the black mold concern. Now that you are up there, restate your concerns.

Bud

 

[NorPlan]

Very good, that seems to eliminate the black mold concern. Now that you are up there, restate your concerns.

Bud

:wink2: Well Now I'm back to the Very Fact that there is No Bathroom or Kitchen Exhaust Fans ..... Going to Continue Persuing that Avenue now that we've done a Visual.. The Question will be just exactly where we want to run the (Insulated) Exhaust Hoses.. (1) Up Thru The Cupola Hood Vent Cap (2) Gable End, the run from the Kitchen will be about 25' (3) Up Thru The Roof.. The later my least favourite thru the roof for fear of creating a leak..lol...:glasses:

 

[Gary in WA]

The mold around the access door is from room air/moisture leaking past (and condensing) when the attic draws on the house air due to pressure differences, add weather stripping to solve. Today, your climate warrants more attic insulation than earlier standards (per code) though there is a money/value stopping point above R-22...
Keep in mind the kitchen exhaust ducting requires smooth metal and flex creates turbulence, so go one size bigger than listed for max. run. You don't want the exhaust returning to the attic via another opening when wind driven and operating, watch your placements of termination hoods. Pics would help... air sealing the attic floor would be first priority.

Gary

 

[ChuckF.]

"Strange though sitting on top of the Blown In Insulation over the main part of the House is an Unopened Bale of Batten Insulation and 2 / 15ft rows of Batt Insulation spread across the attic floor..."

Sounds like a previous owner's DIY project that died due to procrastination. That never happens...

 

[NorPlan]

Sounds like a previous owner's DIY project that died due to procrastination. That never happens...

:wink2: That's what got me , considering the Size of the 2'X2' Trap Door.. As I said we are 3rd Owners and there is evidence of past Reno's .. If anything, The material that makes up the 1970's era Blown In Insulation looks like it Lost It's R-Value, it just looks Dirty Brown & Blaaa...lol... The one thing about this House , It Holds It's Heat Well in the Dead of Winter and Very Affordable to Heat..lol...