I have a KT1015 kobalt table saw that doesn't have a dado throat plate, I've seen where delta saws are suppose to be compatable but have not been able to locate any from kobalt , (which are made for Lowes), if anyone knows of one or which way to go it would be helpful
dado throat plate insert
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Yep, you may even want to make one for each width you commonly cut, even zero clearance throat plates to help eliminate any chipout or splintering that might occur.
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As mentioned above, it's common to shop make throat plates and the complexity is saw dependent but usually nothing a wood worker can't manage. My son's Rockwell mod. 10 is different than my 1947 Sears but both have been accomplished.
If using wood, 2,3 or 4 outlines can be cut out simultaneously by stacking the blanks and paper joint gluing together for the cut and final sanding to fit, then pop those apart with a knife.
Paper glue joint - a couple of half inch squares of craft paper between each blank ( brown paper bag ) with a couple drops of Elmer's on each does it ) to hold for cutting out with a band saw or Sabre saw.
As wolley mentioned you then have several for different width dadoes. There are any one of several methods to hold the plate in the saw table while raising the blade up making the cut. Research that to determine which you prefer.
If using wood, 2,3 or 4 outlines can be cut out simultaneously by stacking the blanks and paper joint gluing together for the cut and final sanding to fit, then pop those apart with a knife.
Paper glue joint - a couple of half inch squares of craft paper between each blank ( brown paper bag ) with a couple drops of Elmer's on each does it ) to hold for cutting out with a band saw or Sabre saw.
As wolley mentioned you then have several for different width dadoes. There are any one of several methods to hold the plate in the saw table while raising the blade up making the cut. Research that to determine which you prefer.
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I did something like this week a couple of weeks back. Set the fence with sacrificial board screwed to it where I needed it, set dado width without any insert plate and dropped below the table, clamped a piece of mdf onto the entire remaining portion of the table, turned on the saw and slowly raised the blade. Instant zero clearance.
If you are using the current factory supplied insert you are doing your wood a disservice. A factory insert is designed to make normal and beveled cuts and as a result has a wide opening that does not support the wood leaving rougher cuts than need be.
Make yourself a bunch of insert blanks using plywood, or phenolic. At minimum you should make yourself a zero clearance insert and a dado insert. Might as well make 4-5 of the inserts to make a variety of sizes for zero clearance for a variety of dado sizes.
The easiest way to do it is to set your table saw fence to the width of the insert and cut a number of blanks to the insert's width. Then you can trace the inserts edges on the blank and cut out with a jig saw.
You can tap some threads to add set screws to adjust for height.
If you happen to have a router its even easier to get a pattern. Use double sided tape to put the blank and insert together to create new inserts.
Make yourself a bunch of insert blanks using plywood, or phenolic. At minimum you should make yourself a zero clearance insert and a dado insert. Might as well make 4-5 of the inserts to make a variety of sizes for zero clearance for a variety of dado sizes.
The easiest way to do it is to set your table saw fence to the width of the insert and cut a number of blanks to the insert's width. Then you can trace the inserts edges on the blank and cut out with a jig saw.
You can tap some threads to add set screws to adjust for height.
If you happen to have a router its even easier to get a pattern. Use double sided tape to put the blank and insert together to create new inserts.
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