[unixb0y]

I'll post a picture later on today. This does not seem to be too evident for me on how to fix this.

I have a rotten corner of a window frame. The vertical piece of the corner seems fine.

The horizontal piece is rotten. The size of the rot is the size of my fist.

I have 2 choices,

1) Clean out the area and use an epoxy wood filler. This seems to me to be a BIG mess.
2) Cut the rot out and replace it with a new piece.

On the top of the frame, I have flashing and the sidding J channel.

Is there a tool I can use that will help me make a nice cut?

On writing this, I think I might have thought of one solution.

Use a drill to create the vertical line and then clean it up with a chisel...

 

[hayewe farm]

A router would be my choice. Using a template and follower bearing. If you do decide to go with epoxy I would recommend Flexible Epoxy

 

[Thurman]

Of course a picture would really help, but we don't have one at the moment, so-repairing rotted wood on window frames is not that hard of a job. I do this in my business. I recommend you determine exactly which pieces of wood are rotted and need to be replaced. Determine if you can remove an entire piece of wood for replacement or can you just cut out some of the wood without compromising the structural integrity of the frame. Your suggested approach of using a drill and chisel is one I used for a long time until I bought one of those newer "brain surgeon" saws, that have the vibrating blades. I bought the Dremel, based on pricing and performance, and it has been good for me. I can now carefully determine what wood to cut out, how to replace this piece of wood and get the job done. I use an epoxy glue and screws to join together any new joint of new and old wood also. Please post pictures, there will be other ideas. Thanks, David

 

[kd4ttc]

Replace the sash.

When talking about the rotten window part I think you are referring to the sash, the part that contains the glass. The case, which the sash fits into is another matter.

The best repair is to replace the sash. These are available commercially from the window maker. The part could also be machined afresh, though that is obviously a bigger job. Once a piece goes bad there is often other rot in other pieces of the sash, so it may not be worth trying to save.

 

[unixb0y]

The Rotten section is about 2-3 inches long. It's in the upper right hand corner.

I believe that the rot was caused by old window awning hardware that was removed and holes were never patched up correctly. The house was built in 1945.

The window is 10 feet wide by 6 feet tall.

I bought winwax wood filler. I'm not sure if it's flexible.

 

[Chemist1961]

looks to me like you have rotten brick moulding. This can be purchased primed. I would suggest you consider doing at least the top and side. I would do top and both sies for uniform look.
This piece should lift off the window frame with a small prybar if you are careful, but inspect behind for more water damage. If you are careful you may be able to salvage the top as a replacement side when cut down. Expect to take that piece to the store to match profile.
Alexandria moulding makes a similar profile sold thru HD in canada:thumbsup:

 

[Chemist1961]

FYI, for a 10 foot section you may want to consider a 16 footer for garage door and cut it down.

 

[hayewe farm]

I agree with Chemist1961. That's trim not sash. But it just looks like flate stock with a bead detail.

 

[unixb0y]

FYI, for a 10 foot section you may want to consider a 16 footer for garage door and cut it down.

Wow! You seem to have hit the nail on the head.

This one seems to match the most http://www.alexandriamoulding.com/products/entries/3322B.jpg Size: 1-1/4'' x 2-1/4''

What seems to be installed on the house is 1-1/4" X 1-1/2". Which is the 3322B cut down to only have one routed edge.

My local windsor plywood has the molding also
http://www.winply.ca/?p=products&d=browselist&cat=mld-wprimed&sort=itemnum&sortdir=ASC&page=3

 

[Chemist1961]

:thumbsupid my front window 2 years ago....Working on a 7 footer now
You want to look in behind to see where the water is coming from. Check for bad flashing above, etc.

re the WOW.....Even a stopped clock is right twice a day:laughing:

 

[Chemist1961]

Unixboy, Looks like you're in Winterpeg, land of mosquitos and endless summer nights?

 

[Thurman]

Thanks for the pics. Now that we've seen them it seems most of us agree that you have some trim/moulding problems that can easily be resolved. I also agree that finding the source of the water infiltration should be done at this time. Personally, I would not even think about any wood filler. I would replace all four side of this trim so I could inspect what is under this. Good Luck, David

 

[unixb0y]

Well, ended up making my own brick mold since the I could not find a inexpensive brick mold that fit.

The house has original painted siding and has aluminum siding over it.

I managed to get the brick mold back on, I pre caulked the edges of the wood siding.

I have a 2-3mm gap that I can get between the j-channel and the brick mold which would give me a small access between brick mold and the wood siding.

What I'm getting at is this: Is there a tool that I can get so that I can get more caulking between the brick mold and wood siding.

I was thinking about a large gauge syringe but who knows where I can find that.

PS: as for the cause of the original rot, the house used to have the 70's window awning. They removed them, but did not patch the holes. They then at a later time, filled the rot with caulking and painted it. I'm pretty sure that is what happened. I also replaced the galvanized steel 3' window flashing section with a single 9' aluminum flashing.