[JustAHack]

I have some cast in a cottage that I need to cut out. There is actually a 4" cast stack that goes thru the roof with 3" vent.

I an getting a cast iron pipe cutter. I need some advice please.,.


I assume I should start cutting from the top and work down... Right? Cutting maybe 3' down from the top of the pipe and work my way down? I was thinking that if I cut from the bottom... I will have this heavy piece of cast drop on the floor.

Next... Can I use the pipe cutter on cast elbows too? I want to keep the cast piece that goes into the ground... But remove all the elbows above. Would a Stilsen wrench be able to break the lead sealant?

Thanks !

 

[joecaption]

If it was mine I'd get rid of every inch of it and replace with PVC including what runs under ground, going to have to do it at some point anyway.
Make sure to add some clean outs.
No wrench is going to break the joints free.
I'd start at the top and work my way down as you suggested, that stuff is heavy.
Make sure to wear gloves.

 

[JustAHack]

This flows into a cesspool which I have to replace anyway within the next 3 years - the amt of time my new design is good for. Im hoping the cesspool is not caved in... I am locating the cover is weekend and digging it up.

Will the cutter work ok on those 90s? Do I have e to worry about pieces dropping into the line?

Sorry for upside down pic... Not sure what happened there.

 

[carpdad]

Not a plumber, but I don't think the chain cutter is made for cutting the flange. If lead filled, it may hold together anyway. What you can do is cut the pipe near the flange. Stuff rag into it and break the flange with 5 lb hammer. Save the last flange. If the pipe separates, you can chisel out the lead/okum and use rubber gasket to connect new pvc. The roof vent does not have to be removed, just cut in the attic, unless you want new pvc throughout.

 

[TheEplumber]

Rotated image-

Use ratchet style cutter below the hub and use a no-hub coupling to attach the new pipe.
There is a chance that fragments will drop inside- depends on how solid your existing pipe is. If it is 'rotted' you might not get a clean cut. The pipe is heavy, so start from the top and work down- or securely support the sections.

Do not cut through the fittings, there will not be a clean area to attach to.
If you change to plastic pipe- use a 'proflex' shielded transition coupling labeled PLxCI

 

[Ghostmaker]

Usually a small sludge hammer on the hub will break the cast for easy removal. Make sure you wear eye protection. Yes start from the top and keep all fingers clear of a possible collapse.

 

[rustyjames]

If it was mine I'd get rid of every inch of it and replace with PVC including what runs under ground, going to have to do it at some point anyway.
Make sure to add some clean outs.
No wrench is going to break the joints free.
I'd start at the top and work my way down as you suggested, that stuff is heavy.
Make sure to wear gloves.

Sorry, but I have to disagree on the cast iron. It has been around for a long time, and it has stood the test of time. My Mother just had a backwater valve installed and the section that was cut out looked like the day it was installed, inside the pipe, that is. Her house was built in 1960.