[ThirtyWest]

Ok, I know there are thousands of videos out there. I've seen a lot of them: sounds good, looks good, then the guy just says, "...set to 45" and off he goes. As if every corner is just that.

So, at the risk of opening Pandora's box I've got some questions here.

I'm new to hanging crown.

1. I already own a Dewalt DWS780 with crown stops. I plan on getting an 80tooth or so for the moulding;
2. I have a starret 505p-7;
3. I have a room;
4. I have 2.7" 50/38 crown.
5. I'm not trusting myself to use my coping saw just yet, so that's out of this thread.
6. I'll be using segments of 2x4 ripped to make backing strips along the wall in sections--probably not the entire wall's length though. I've been told that size trim doesn't really need it though.
7. no glue.
8. 16ga 2.5" nails on the gun



Q's:

Q1. if you have a compound saw you're putting in a mitre angle and a bevel based on the spring angle, correct?

Q2. After you cut the mitre, where do you position the wood to cut the bevel?


Q1. if you don't have a compound saw you're using crown stops and putting in a mitre angle only, correct?

If you have (example) an 80deg inside corner. That's a mitre of 50 (90 - 80/2).​

Q4 .Is that the same angle if you are using crown stops?

The reason for Q4 is the Starret has an arrow that points to SINGLE-CUT but using the above angle gives (correctly) 50 on the miter but "10" for the single cut. Does an index of 10 on the saw's deck (with the crown tilted to its angle with stops) give the proper bevel that way?

It's amazing how many videos and pdfs (including the very one from Starret) that don't mention the other side of the dial.


Thanks for taking it slowly.

 

[chandler48]

I use the detent stops on the saw (Ridgid slider) and lay the crown with the top toward the fence, facing up. Certainly you will run into the wall that isn't square, and adjustments can be made.

 

[Marson]

Ok, I know there are thousands of videos out there. I've seen a lot of them: sounds good, looks good, then the guy just says, "...set to 45" and off he goes. As if every corner is just that.

So, at the risk of opening Pandora's box I've got some questions here.

I'm new to hanging crown.

1. I already own a Dewalt DWS780 with crown stops. I plan on getting an 80tooth or so for the moulding;
2. I have a starret 505p-7;
3. I have a room;
4. I have 2.7" 50/38 crown.
5. I'm not trusting myself to use my coping saw just yet, so that's out of this thread.
6. I'll be using segments of 2x4 ripped to make backing strips along the wall in sections--probably not the entire wall's length though. I've been told that size trim doesn't really need it though.
7. no glue.
8. 16ga 2.5" nails on the gun



Q's:

Q1. if you have a compound saw you're putting in a mitre angle and a bevel based on the spring angle, correct?

Q2. After you cut the mitre, where do you position the wood to cut the bevel?


Q1. if you don't have a compound saw you're using crown stops and putting in a mitre angle only, correct?

If you have (example) an 80deg inside corner. That's a mitre of 50 (90 - 80/2).​

Q4 .Is that the same angle if you are using crown stops?

The reason for Q4 is the Starret has an arrow that points to SINGLE-CUT but using the above angle gives (correctly) 50 on the miter but "10" for the single cut. Does an index of 10 on the saw's deck (with the crown tilted to its angle with stops) give the proper bevel that way?

View attachment 603921



It's amazing how many videos and pdfs (including the very one from Starret) that don't mention the other side of the dial.


Thanks for taking it slowly.

I usually cut my crown "nested" meaning that the crown is leaning against the fence of the saw at the same angle it will be on the wall. The base of the saw corresponds to the ceiling, and the fence corresponds to the wall. The crown stops insure that the crown is in the exact position each cut. I do this even though I have saw fully capable of compound miters. That's just the way I learned and it's easier for me. No right or wrong way to do it.



For inside corners, I always cope them as if they were 90 degrees, that is I don't worry if the actually corner measures say 85 degrees. Thats one of the beauties of coping. You are going to try to miter yours? Coping is so much easier. I haven't used a coping saw in years. I either use a jigsaw, and dress up the cut with my utility knife or even a rasp, or lately an angle grinder with a flap disc sander in it. It's not that hard.



I have a Starrett gauge like you show. I only use it for outside miters. The one scale shows you your angle cuts for mitering two pieces. The other scale that says single cut is just that...a single cut like if you were butting one piece into another. It has nothing to do with the bevel on crown cut on the flat. You can get that bevel number from a table of crown molding cuts. 52 38 crown uses a miter of 31.6 and a bevel of 33.9 for a 90 degree corner. That is cut in one go. Of course those angles and bevels change if you are not at 90 degrees, but again, that's the beauty of coping.



Highly recommend you get yourself some cheap mdf crown and practice a bit.


There are tons of videos out there. Stick with one method though. This guy has great videos and is a working pro that shares the tricks of the trade.

 

[ThirtyWest]

I've seen his video using a flap disc. that's pretty slick. thanks for the starret explanation. the second I got my head out of thinking two pieces complementing each other the single cut was clear as it could be.