Couple of quick newbie questions...

1095 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by bcemail, Jun 15, 2020

bcemail

Discussion Starter · Jun 12, 2020

Doing my first major drywall project, replacing a couple of sheets that I had to pull off our laundry room and a utility room ceiling due to a leak. About to buy all my supplies...

1. I read 5/8" is common for ceilings, but there's 1/2" up that I'll be butting up against. Is "1/2" Ultralight" the right thing?

2. Is there one type of mud I can use for the whole project? Got confused reading everything. Some say just get premixed (which seems easiest) but some places mention using different muds for early and later coats.

3. The utility room has a textured ceiling. At some point we will have the whole area done by a pro. Even if it looks weird, can I just butt the new stuff up against the textured area? Maybe sand away the texture along the seams to try and blend?

Drywall, mud, small knife, big knife, tape (should I use paper?)...anything else I'm forgetting? About 30 minutes to hardware store so trying to make one trip...OK OK, trying to make the fewest trips.

Thanks!

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mark sr

· #2 · Jun 12, 2020

5/8" is often used on ceilings because it's less likely to sag when the ceiling joists are on 24" centers. 1/2" usually works ok when the joists are on 16" centers. Since you already have some 1/2" on the ceiling you should stick with 1/2"

The green lid all purpose mud is probably best for a novice that only wants/needs to buy 1 bucket. Paper tape has a better track record. If you use sticky tape [self adhesive mesh] it's best to lock it down with a setting compound.

What type of texture is on your ceiling?

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bcemail

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 12, 2020

mark sr said:
5/8" is often used on ceilings because it's less likely to sag when the ceiling joists are on 24" centers. 1/2" usually works ok when the joists are on 16" centers. Since you already have some 1/2" on the ceiling you should stick with 1/2"

The green lid all purpose mud is probably best for a novice that only wants/needs to buy 1 bucket. Paper tape has a better track record. If you use sticky tape [self adhesive mesh] it's best to lock it down with a setting compound.

What type of texture is on your ceiling?

Thanks I'll go with 1/2". What's the difference between the green lid and the lightweight?

Here's a picture of the texture. Not worried about matching it since eventually we want to replace it. Maybe even I'll do it if this project doesn't go down in flames...

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mark sr

· #4 · Jun 13, 2020

The green lid mud has more adhesive properties than the blue lid [lightweight] The lightweight mud might sand a little easier. Many use the green lid for the initial tape coat and the blue lid for the rest but if you only need one bucket - buy the green lid.

That texture looks like it may be thinned down joint compound rolled on. If the texture isn't painted you can get it wet and easily scrape it off. If it's been painted it would be easier to skim coat over it.

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Mystriss

· #5 · Jun 13, 2020

I got a bag of 45 minute set mud and a mud tray and it was super easy to mix up with a kitchen scale (just had to do a bit of math to figure out the ratio for a small batch) and mix it up with a metal spreader (spatula?) I even messed with matching my existing walls orange peel texture (needs more practice with that technique, but it turned out alright once painted.)

I'm not particularly keen on the idea of the premixed stuff, I worry it'll dry up, or dirt gets in there - then you don't see it and try to use it on your wall and have a disaster that's far harder to fix than mixing up a batch from powder.

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mark sr

· #6 · Jun 13, 2020

Mixing setting compounds doesn't have to be precise, I always eyeball it. If it's too thick add more water, too thin add more powder. I normally mix it up in my mud pan with a drywall knife.

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ratherbefishing

· #7 · Jun 13, 2020

Hey bce! Congratulations on taking on the job. You're a true DIYer now! I'm proud of you.

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bcemail

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jun 14, 2020

Thanks for all the tips and encouragement!

Did the smaller of the rooms yesterday, and went...fairly well! Trickiest part was moving the drywall around without damaging the corners (!!!), cutting the sheets straight and cleanly, not mushrooming the corners when screwing, and getting everything flush. Working with the existing ceiling was tricky, trying to find places to screw in along the edges of the 2x4s, cutting the old board back while it was up there, etc. But just put some extra mud in the gaps and tried to remind myself that it's my first time and just a laundry room.

Now, onto the second room. This is part of an "in-law suite" which we use more as storage, kids play room, etc. The ceiling in this room has always been strange in that it's about 7' for most of the room the goes up about 2' for the last of the ceiling. Well, as I took the last bits of drywall down, I realized why: the big steel I-beam running through. Guessing this couple of rooms used to be one big one, and maybe even a 2 car garage (or at least the plans called for a 2 car garage). The guy that built the house sort of figured it out as he went (we've met his son who confirmed this!) so who knows.

The lower area is only about 8' wide so I'll just going to pull the other sheet (the one above the window in the picture) down to get everything flush and with no texture. The vertical part on the side of the beam seems to be hardboard, not drywall. Then there is a corner piece that the ceiling drywall sort of sits on for support, plus glue on the beam. YOu can also see the 2x4s were angled to sit on the I beam but then be level with it for a nailing surface.

So what now? Should I just go with the method they used? It was solid enough to last this long, I guess. Might have to scrape that glue off the I beam first? That doesn't sound fun.

My other thought was to add some furring strips on the bottom of the 2x4s. If I ran them the same direction as the 2x4s I would keep the sheets running the long way (parallel to the I beam) or if I attached them perpendicular to the 2x4s then I would need to run the sheets the other way. Right? The only problem with this method is the door and window frames are flush with the ceiling right now, so not sure I can do that? I would then have to replace with casings that are 3/4" narrower, right? Don't know if they have those, or if that will cause more trouble somehow, etc.

Let me know what you think! And thanks again!!