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Couple of hardibacker questions

3126 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  toocheaptohire
1. I noticed that hardi is actually 3/8" not 1/2"... I need to butt this up to drywall on a long common wall at the back of the tub. How is this 1/8" difference usually handled?

2. I know I am supposed to keep 1/8" back between panels... and the hardi says to keep screws 2" from the sides... how can I do both in the corners and still be able to screw to a stud on the inside corner?
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#1. In this area, the walls are generally hung full with drywall and the Hardi applied on top of the drywall for tile backer. A "bullnose" tile is used to "kill" the edge.
*2. Add blocking as necessary for your needs to properly attach the Hardi to mfgr's. specs.
Hmm, I guess I still don't see what you mean. Are you saying to use a bullnose tile that makes an angle? The bullnose I am using is no larger than the field tile and just simple has a rounded edge... I have had someone else tell me that I should use the backerboard up to the drywall (in which case the higher edge would be the drywall) and use the bullnose to kill the edge that way... I still don't see how this would work either...

is this the bullnose you refer to?

This is what I have

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The top piece you show is what I am referring to. If you use the "bullnose" you have, you'll need to shim the studs in the tub area to get on the same "plane" as the drywall....
The bullnose I'm referring to will work for the drawing you show.
Thanks for the help. Very much appreciated. I will shim... For what its worth though, wouldn't it make sense for hardi to be made to match drywall?
You would think, but then again shouldn't a 2x4 be 2"x4"???
is it just hardi or are all the CBUs less than 1/2"...
Durock (cement) backerboard is 1/2" which is why I like it for shower/bath walls to butt against other drywall on non-wet walls and hide seam with tile overlap.
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