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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to be using mud rings in metal boxes for the first time as I am remodeling. I swore off plastic after years of being frustrated at the terrible declining quality of them as years go by. Old work plastic is actually fine with me, but for new work, metal is where I will be at.

I have read that there is a very testy debate going on for years about sizing up vs. correct size. Meaning, for 1/2" drywall, using 5/8" vs. 1/2" mudring. I will be roto zipping the box out. On one hand, I would love for it to be flush out of the gate, which is why people upsize. On the other hand, if for some reason I get everything flush when installing, I could have a mudring that sticks out past the drywall slightly which can't be fixed. If the ring is sized to the drywall size and is recessed a bit it is easier to put a few of the shims in when installing the switches and outlets. So seems less precise, but more easily fixable if using the same size.

Of course, adjustable rings would be great, but nowhere local carries them unfortunately.
 

· Naildriver
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Common sense would dictate that you would use the depth of mud ring that is associated with your drywall needs. You don't want it protruding past your drywall. Remember your yokes will be attached to the surface of the mud ring making it even more proud.
 

· Ret. Elec. Contractor
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The heads of the 8-32 screws in the corners of the box space the box from the drywall another 1/8".
If you're using 1/2" drywall a 5/8" ring will bring the ring flush with the drywall.
With 5/8" drywall using a 3/4" ring the same thing is true.
 

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I have read that there is a very testy debate going on for years about sizing up vs. correct size. Meaning, for 1/2" drywall, using 5/8" vs. 1/2" mudring.
I rewired most of my house with square boxes and mud rings and spent way too much time researching this same question. Then, to be safe, I picked mud rings the same nominal size as the drywall. They all ended up 3/16" to 1/4" recessed even with the boxes mounted properly--code-legal but just barely. You lose 1/8" from the screws plus another 1/16" for the sheet metal thickness. I swapped most of them out for +1/8". Not one stuck proud of the wall, and nearly all were a perfect fit.

Note that switches near the horizontal drywall seam will appear proud when the drywall goes up, because of the tapered drywall edge, but will be flush once the joint is mudded.

Even if your mud rings end up 1/16" proud, which they won't, the cover plates will still sit flat.

I also have a couple Garvin adjustables in my kitchen to accommodate tile not yet installed. The double-gang adjustables telescope all the way down and sit flat with the 1/2" drywall, but the single-gang ones stick out 1/8". I was able to tell this when I mounted them.

Steel City has some adjustable mud rings that go down to 1/2". The screws hold friction wedges to secure the extension versus a threaded adjuster like the Garvin ones. I'd save the adjustables for where you plan to install tile.

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-boxes-covers/extenders-covers-mud-rings/steel-city-1-gang-adjustable-mud-ring/52cadj-15l/p-1444444962037.htm

I also used Garvin 5/8 octagon rings for the lights in my 5/8" drywall ceiling, and they are all recessed 3/16" to 1/4". Garvin didn't have them in 3/4" yet when I did the rough-in, but all the sizes are available now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have read that there is a very testy debate going on for years about sizing up vs. correct size. Meaning, for 1/2" drywall, using 5/8" vs. 1/2" mudring.
I rewired most of my house with square boxes and mud rings and spent way too much time researching this same question. Then, to be safe, I picked mud rings the same nominal size as the drywall. They all ended up 3/16" to 1/4" recessed even with the boxes mounted properly--code-legal but just barely. You lose 1/8" from the screws plus another 1/16" for the sheet metal thickness. I swapped most of them out for +1/8". Not one stuck proud of the wall, and nearly all were a perfect fit.
Thanks for the great response. I, too, have a feeling that j have been spending way too much time on researching this! I think your response has pushed me square into the camp of sizing up. It makes sense really that the screw heads on the sides being 1/8" clearly will cause it to be recessed if nominal, but close to flush if size up. Thanks again!
 

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Thanks for the great response. I, too, have a feeling that j have been spending way too much time on researching this! I think your response has pushed me square into the camp of sizing up. It makes sense really that the screw heads on the sides being 1/8" clearly will cause it to be recessed if nominal, but close to flush if size up. Thanks again!
You can always test it before hanging the drywall! Take a small drywall piece (with a blunt edge--not a tapered edge) and hold it across two studs in front of the box. If the box interferes with the drywall, you know it's set too far forward or is mounted to a crooked stud.

If you are using bracket boxes, proper bracket placement at the stud face should align the box 1/8" back from the drywall. This leaves room for the mud ring and screws without bulging the drywall out and accounts for the additional 1/8" mud ring depth needed for a flush fit.

Here's a picture of a 5/8" mud ring in 1/2" drywall, mounted in a 4" square bracket box.

Have fun!

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I always use far side supports. They keep the non fastened side of the box against the drywall.
Good tip. I just finished installing a couple of boxes and noticed that they were bent back slightly on the side not fastened with the bracket. I'll have to pick some up if for nothing more to test them out and see if I like them. Local store doesn't have them but can order online as I have a couple of weeks before drywall goes up.
 
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