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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best order to follow in taping and mudding joints? The walls were already done and painted by a previous owner, so we have:

1) Ceiling with taper and butt joints

2) Inside corner where ceiling and walls meet

3) Soffit with inside and outside corners

Thanks. I'm a beginner, so I want to do this in the best, most efficient way.
 

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First---the right muds--

Multipurpose---green lid--contains glue and is used for setting paper--can be used for second fill coat---hard to sand---

powdered easy sand---chemical setting--5-20-45-90 minute setting time--
Very hard to sand---used to fill gaps before taping---as the second fill coat--filling corner bead.

Light Weight--blue lid---topping compound--easy to sand--soft--used for final top coat----

Next--the order of things---I do the corner beads and gap filling first--then the inside corners--then the flat areas---this is not set in stone---the order can be varied.

As a beginner, buy good tools--6"-10"-12" blades--

For tape? I use paper not mesh---inside corners? Consider using Straight Flex---
It is expensive but ,because it is stiff,will five you nice straight corners.
 

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What is the best order to follow in taping and mudding joints? The walls were already done and painted by a previous owner, so we have:

1) Ceiling with taper and butt joints

2) Inside corner where ceiling and walls meet

3) Soffit with inside and outside corners

Thanks. I'm a beginner, so I want to do this in the best, most efficient way.
Sorry I'm a little confused if it's already done and painted why are you mudding and taping? Does this mean the corner bead has already been installed. If it's been taped already you don't need to re-tape.
Sorry re-read the post now I understand.
 

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OK let me try again since I had my coffee. I would do the angles first, where the ceiling meets the wall, and the soffits, then the tapers then the butts. What you need to be careful of is where these joints intersect, that you don't get a build-up in these areas. Hopefully for your sake there aren't too many butts.
This order isn't written in stone just the way I would probably do it. Just remember when mudding thin coats are better, meaning after you put the mud on you are going to pull almost all of it back off. For instance after the second coat you may still be able to see the tape. And you must let it totally dry between coats.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks guys. Do you recommend sandpaper or sanding sponges? What about the 3M sanding sponges? I noticed they are rated as medium, fine, extra fine, etc. I don't have a sanding pole. I'm just going to do it by hand.
 

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You need a flat sanding pad--either a hand held or pole mounted one---this will flatten out the work---you also need the 3Msanding sponges---for edges and details--Medium is good----
 

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If you ever need the heavier duty use sanding screens instead of sandpaper, the paper clogs up to easy.
 

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Thanks guys. Do you recommend sandpaper or sanding sponges? What about the 3M sanding sponges? I noticed they are rated as medium, fine, extra fine, etc. I don't have a sanding pole. I'm just going to do it by hand.
Buying a pole will be worth it - they're cheap and speed sanding up considerably.

The sanding sponge you want for corners has a 45 degree angle on the edge, medium as already said.
 

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Have you tried the poles with the round sanding pads. A little more costly but I really like them. Didn't think I would. But yes a pole sander is a must.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks. So I can't just use sanding sponges? Or are they more for light duty sanding? I just need to do an 18' X 18' ceiling.

Is wet sanding even a possibility?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mudding questions

When mudding the wall/ceiling intersection, is it easiest for a beginner to use a corner tool, or do one edge, then the other edge the next day?

Outside corner bead - Are both edges done at the same time, or do one edge, then the other edge the next day?

Thanks.
 

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When mudding the wall/ceiling intersection, is it easiest for a beginner to use a corner tool, or do one edge, then the other edge the next day?

Outside corner bead - Are both edges done at the same time, or do one edge, then the other edge the next day?

Thanks.
I have 2 of those corner tools and anybody that wants them can have them. Just a little tip I assume your using either a 5 or 6" knife to do your inside corners. Go ahead and do both sides the same time except for the final coat.
On the corner bead you can do both sides the same day.
 

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Have you tried the poles with the round sanding pads. A little more costly but I really like them. Didn't think I would. But yes a pole sander is a must.
I've heard nothing but good things from people who have tried them. My next purchase is going to be a round bottom pan - guys who do a lot of setting compound work say good things about the clean up time with them.
 

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I have 2 of those corner tools and anybody that wants them can have them. Just a little tip I assume your using either a 5 or 6" knife to do your inside corners. Go ahead and do both sides the same time except for the final coat.
On the corner bead you can do both sides the same day.
Some people swear by corner trowels, everyone else swears at them. Experience doesn't seem to be the issue.

Bottom line is the most likely outcome for anyone (experienced or inexperienced) using a corner trowel for the first time is a messed up corner.
 

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Thanks. So I can't just use sanding sponges? Or are they more for light duty sanding? I just need to do an 18' X 18' ceiling.

Is wet sanding even a possibility?
You can do the whole thing with sanding sponges.

Wet sanding is a possibility - it very good for occupied homes due to no dust. It helps if you don;t have big lumps and ridges. Chances are you'll still need the 45 angle sanding sponge to get the corners appearing crisp. Also, for lap marks and things like that, you can shave them off before the coat is fully dry by flexing your knife blade into a C shape with two hands, and holding it almost perpendicular to the surface, then drawing it along the lap mark. That can save you a lot of wet or dry sanding.
 
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