[gslenk]

Playing around with IKEA's designer tool, I am beginning to think a corner cab may not fit, especially not their 45 corner which I would greatly prefer. I know I'll miss giving up the space that cabinets on the window wall would provide, but there would be a more open feeling to compensate, and I can probably come up with a way to make up for that space elsewhere.

Some variances from what I was limited to in the IKEA designing tool:
The (induction) stove top will be 36", and I plan on a 42" hood, with at least a 3" gap to the wall cabinets on each side. The tool only had 30" hoods.
The fridge will be 36" not 30" that is why it looks offset.

Am I committing some sort of sin by leaving the window wall bare, or should I consider making some sacrifices elsewhere to make the corner, and window wall cabinets happen?

I'm not too keen on crowding the hood vent with adjacent cabinets butting up against it.

 

[Mystriss]

I don't think there are really hard rules on kitchen's other than the highly advised golden triangle (oven, sink, fridge on the triangle points)

That said, that's an awful huge dining table for not enough kitchen cabinet storage... Especially if you don't have a food pantry. Are you planning to cook a lot of meals, or are you more the eat out/no dinner parties/holiday meals type?

I'd consider putting your range, and the vent hood, on the island, which lets you have more cabinet space on the one wall. Like, there's just no such thing as too much cabinet space if you actually use your kitchen - if there's empty cabinets, you'll find gadgets to put in them.

Maybe also consider doing the sink in the island for more cabinet space.

Corner cabs are really nice for bulky item storage. Keeps the stuff off the countertops and makes the whole kitchen more functional, and probs seem bigger. I don't think you need a 45* angle corner cab though, in fact, personally I'd much prefer to drop $300-500 bucks on this insert than have a 45* - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4Q79C...olid=32WNCEIGWAM83&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[gslenk]

I did consider putting the sink or stove in the island, but ultimately decided against that. I think the sink would be a wash space wise. I would have had 18" on either side of the stove, a massive hood in the middle, and grease presumably flying everywhere. I might be wrong, but as pretty as an island stove looks, it just seems a bit too impractical.

I just plopped the table in to see what's the most I could squeeze in there.

My secret plan for extra storage would be a low cabinet/drawers unit under the larger window to the right.

The base cabinets will absolutely have a corner, its the wall cabinets I'm trying to squeeze in. Looks like I may have to hack up some wall cabinets to avoid a blind wall corner.

 

[3onthetree]

The fridge and its cabinet is the oddity and what really breaks up that wall. So put in the blind corner cabinet.

 

[Colbyt]

With all the quality cabinet makers in the world why would you consider buying IKEA cabinets?


A corner or blind corner are about equally hard to use but I 've never seen a house with too many cabinets.

 

[Mystriss]

Ah gotcha.

Alright, what I'd do is ditch the dining table area entirely. Expand the cabinets fully across the window wall and on the right "dining table" side. Then put in a second island "island table" with overhangs for sitting at. You can get backless pub height bar stools that'll tuck in under the counter top "dining area."

I converted the "eat-in" section of my kitchen and did a sit at bar instead and I've never once regretted it. Granted I do have an actual dining room, but we use it to store all our house project supplies so I don't think it's been actually usable as a dining room for like 15 years :vs_laugh:


Also, I technically have a "blind" corner wall cabinet on my wrap around that's got doors on two sides, might work well in the corners by your windows. (I have Thomasvilles, but you can probs hack something out to do similar?) Not the best picture of it, and I can't get a better one atm cause of all the flooring boxes in there right now, but this shows our bar table as well:

Here's the original plan I drew up, kinda shows the "blind"/"wrap around" cabinet a bit better:

That way you'd have a nice finished look by the window(s) without having an "actual" blind's "lack of functionality." I really do like the dual access cabinet, though it's a bit narrow on the "bar table" side for much more than glasses storage. Still it's nicer than having the flat doorless sides like I have around my windows. I have some arched panels that go over the windows to connect the wall cabinets, but we haven't finalized the ceiling plan so they're not installed yet.

 

[huesmann]

There are solutions for corner cabinets. I don't know that without them that there'd be enough storage space for me.

 

[gslenk]

Funny, sink under then window and range between windows was one of my original designs. I just didn't want the kitchen taking up half my living space, seemed too big.

I hear ya'll loud and clear... I'll find a way to make that corner and wall happen. Also confirmed my suspicion that without window wall cabinets, it looked unbalanced with the fridge where it is

With all the quality cabinet makers in the world why would you consider buying IKEA cabinets?

All I have experience with is IKEA... It's close by, affordable, seems relatively predictable and DIY friendly, simple to plan out and order. HD/Lowes seems like a definite no. I'm definitely open to alternatives especially if there is competitive quality for the price. Any suggestions for what I should be looking for?

Ah gotcha.

Alright, what I'd do is ditch the dining table area entirely. Expand the cabinets fully across the window wall and on the right "dining table" side. Then put in a second island "island table" with overhangs for sitting at. You can get backless pub height bar stools that'll tuck in under the counter top "dining area."

I have some arched panels that go over the windows to connect the wall cabinets, but we haven't finalized the ceiling plan so they're not installed yet

A larger or second island is tempting. I suppose part of me wants a "dedicated dining area" somewhat detached from the kitchen. I can deal with a smaller table in that space if necessary. The larger window is about 30" off of the floor, so a normal counter won't fit there. The planned island is a little under 3ft by 6ft.

Looking at the window area, Some kind of bridge between the cabs on each side of the window might help tie it all together.

 

[Mystriss]

@gslenk

They say kitchen is the center of the home and everyone ends up there anyway :vs_laugh:

Hmmm so many years ago when we'd first bought the cabin it had light oak (matched cabinets) built in U-shaped bench in the eat-in area that went under low windows. I think those windows were 30" or so high also. The U-shape bench was no good for us, but perhaps you would like a long bench under the window just to make the transition for the bases. The cabin's bench's had a bunch of storage under the seat, and one leg of the U had nice deep drawers in them.


Another option for the "dining room" thing is a buffet table, something along these lines:

That'll give you visual separation between the rooms as well as storage.


Also, here's a pic of my original plan with the window arches, it really does tie everything together:

That might not work with the two door'ed corner cabinets idea though - maybe a shorter door under the arch would.

 

[huesmann]

All I have experience with is IKEA... It's close by, affordable, seems relatively predictable and DIY friendly, simple to plan out and order. HD/Lowes seems like a definite no. I'm definitely open to alternatives especially if there is competitive quality for the price. Any suggestions for what I should be looking for?

If you're looking for inexpensive and DIY-friendly, when I remodeled the kitchen in my old house I looked at IKEA, but found a cheaper option in RTA cabinets from an online vendor.

 

[gslenk]

If you're looking for inexpensive and DIY-friendly, when I remodeled the kitchen in my old house I looked at IKEA, but found a cheaper option in RTA cabinets from an online vendor.

Which vendor did you go with? I too was thinking online RTA. This seems like all of the options:

Major US based RTA's, Scherr's, Barker's and Conestoga.
Local cabinet sellers (assembled or not?)
Custom cabinet makers?

 

[huesmann]

The vendor I used was 10 years ago and when I google their name I get a different website.

I wouldn't just use the same vendor I used 10 years ago, anyway. There are a number of RTA vendors—more now than 10 years ago—just pick whose cabinets you like and who has the best (shipped) price. The obvious limitation vs. going custom is they only have X number of styles and colors, but I was OK with that.

 

[gslenk]

Anyone happen to know if any RTA suppliers offer custom/standard sized false bottoms for upper wall cabinets? For example the face frame extended ~2" below the base, and the sides (or at least on the end runs) did the same to match? I plan in recessing plugmold and lights underneath, and that may help simplify the process, instead of fiddling with trimout.

Or is that not a thing?

Also, after mocking everything up with cardboard boxes, I'm pretty set on 15" deep uppers, with a 26" deep countertop. It seems like RTA's favor 12" deep, but then again, I didn't search for too long.

15" and built in skirts for false bottoms may tip the scale away from IKEA.

 

[huesmann]

What do you mean by false bottoms? Do you mean the actual bottom of the cabinet is above the bottom edge of the front/side/back frames? IDK if all RTAs come this way, but mine had about 3/4" of "border" that hung down below the bottom shelf.

 

[gslenk]

What do you mean by false bottoms? Do you mean the actual bottom of the cabinet is above the bottom edge of the front/side/back frames? IDK if all RTAs come this way, but mine had about 3/4" of "border" that hung down below the bottom shelf.

Yes that is exactly it. If 3/4" is standard, it might be a tad too shallow depending on how I route/install plugmold and which brand of under cabinet lighting I go with. Somewhere between 1" to 2" would cover all the applications of undercabinet plugs/lights I can think of. I do not want to go the "adorne" route.

I hope there are some "standard options" for this dimension instead of it becoming an expensive customization.

 

[Colbyt]

There is no industry standard. It varies from maker to maker. You will need to take your tape and go measure some.



As a general guideline the opening height of door area minus 1" subtracted from the cabinet height divided by 2 will give you the empty space for the top and bottom.


I never shopped that way so I don't know if opening size is a provided dimension or not.

 

[Mystriss]

I can't say that I've ever seen a wall cab with more than 3/4" frame space under it.

Look's like plugmold is only 1 1/4" deep so a fairly thin decorative bead trim would cover it up pretty easy, I think that's the best option - short of making your own cabinets anyway.

 

[gslenk]

Yep, it looks like that will have to be trimmed out.

So far some rough estimates

IKEA via the design tool $4500 (call it $6000, because that happens...) Will have some small fillers, and make my own custom 6" base cab (either a pull out wine rack, something creative...). Also, I assume some reinforcing for granite will be necessary.

Barker: I was able to eliminate fillers, and get a better upper corner wall cab situation. But I hit $6000, and that was before the fridge upper, side panels, hardware and any island. Also lead time is ~14 weeks (lead time, painting, shipping).

Still looking for others, Barker seems to be the only one that offers 15" depth wall cabs, without having to give contact/spam info.

 

[Colbyt]

I can't say that I've ever seen a wall cab with more than 3/4" frame space under it.

The cheaper the cabinet the more space. I've seen as much as 2" top and bottom. How this saves them money I have not figured out.

 

[huesmann]

They need to include less bracing hardware, probably.