[DIYGST]

hey guys which one do you recommend? I don't really care for the light

I read some of these one draws 1W constantly? I am going to replace all regular receptacles in the kitchen with GFCI.. all 5 of them. (yes I understand downstream is protected already, but it looks more professional)

The thing I have against the cooper is that, it yellows, really, it start to look different from the switch and plate beside it, well maybe because the plate and switch were leviton parts and they don't quite age the same way.

But other than that, no difference which brand I go with right?

 

[surrogate]

Why not replace the other outlets with the rectangular decorator outlets @ $2.50 each instead. They look like GFCI outlets without the test and reset buttons. I have no complaints with the Cooper GCFI outlets I have, they seem to function as they should.

 

[DIYGST]

I am hoping the fridge outlet will not be downstream of GFCI, I have a regular outlet there, but I heard fridges can trip the GFCI and ruin the food?

As far as code goes does kitchen outlets just need to be CFCI protected via down stream and not at each individual outlet?

 

[Gigs]

I bet they all draw about 1 watt constantly.

I was the one who did the experiment, and it was with a cheap harbor freight GFCI which pulled 1 watt. If someone could test more brands, that would be great. Be careful, they surge enough amps to blow the fuse in a meter when they turn on... I found that out the hard way.

 

[Scuba_Dave]

I like the LED lights, lets me tell at a glance there is power
If you are going to install all GFCI's then pigtail at the LINE & run power to each outlet. Do not use the LOAD connections

Pic on the right

 

[Magnettica]

I am hoping the fridge outlet will not be downstream of GFCI, I have a regular outlet there, but I heard fridges can trip the GFCI and ruin the food?

As far as code goes does kitchen outlets just need to be CFCI protected via down stream and not at each individual outlet?

You can bypass GFCI protecting your refrigerator by using the line side only terminals of the GFCI device.

Cooper, Leviton, same thing. Hubbell GFI's are the best but they don't sell them at HD.

 

[Gigs]

As far as code goes does kitchen outlets just need to be CFCI protected via down stream and not at each individual outlet?

The code only cares that its protected, it doesn't matter where that protection comes from.

There may be some cases where it's easier to wire all the ones that need to be protected as GFCI, such as if you want one to not be protected. An expensive, but easy option. Also if one trips you don't have to hunt.

 

[DIYGST]

Thanks, I did not know you can do this, one of the things is I do not really want to find what is downstream of what.

So I am assuming there is 2 holes on the "line side" to insert 2 wires each, and the clamp will tighten both of them?

I like the LED lights, lets me tell at a glance there is power
If you are going to install all GFCI's then pigtail at the LINE & run power to each outlet. Do not use the LOAD connections

Pic on the right

 

[Scuba_Dave]

I have Levitron & they have 2 holes for 2 wires

 

[Gigs]

So I am assuming there is 2 holes on the "line side" to insert 2 wires each, and the clamp will tighten both of them?

There usually is.

 

[mikey48]

My Coopers only light when the GFI is tripped.

 

[Scuba_Dave]

Is it a red light on trip then?

Mine is a green light

 

[spark plug]

replacing [all] five reg. receptacles w. GFCI

hey guys which one do you recommend? I don't really care for the light

I read some of these one draws 1W constantly? [I am going to replace all regular receptacles in the kitchen with GFCI.. all 5 of them. (yes I understand downstream is protected already, but it looks more professional)]

The thing I have against the cooper is that, it yellows, really, it start to look different from the switch and plate beside it, well maybe because the plate and switch were leviton parts and they don't quite age the same way.

But other than that, no difference which brand I go with right?

Not only is it unnecessary. As you stated yourself. "I understand that all the outlets downstream are protected already". It won't work! I've straightened out jobs where someone tried what you suggested. As far as the brand. I believe (generally) all Leviton products are of a higher quality than some of the other brands!:no::drinkon't Drink and Drive!!!

 

[Speedy Petey]

I believe (generally) all Leviton products are of a higher quality than some of the other brands!

See, now I feel the opposite.
Leviton's resi grade stuff is basically junk IMO. ESPECIALLY their GFIs. I can't stand them.
I have gone to Cooper for pretty much all my devices and cord caps. I think the quality is great.
As far as spec grade stuff both are acceptable.

I use mostly spec grade receptacles and resi grade switches.

 

[spark plug]

[My Coopers only light when the GFI is tripped.]

Different brands (and time of manufacture) will light for different reasons. Some will light only when miswired. (light/load switched around) Others will light when wired correctly!:yes::no::drinkon't Drink and Drive!!!

 

[Scuba_Dave]

Not only is it unnecessary. As you stated yourself. "I understand that all the outlets downstream are protected already". It won't work! I've straightened out jobs where someone tried what you suggested. As far as the brand. I believe (generally) all Leviton products are of a higher quality than some of the other brands!:no::drinkon't Drink and Drive!!!

Wired correctly, off the LINE feed
Why will having GFCI's at each outlet not work ???

Even wired incorrectly the GFCI's will still trip
Just not sure which will trip 1st & it's pointless to do so

 

[spark plug]

Reply to quality rating of diff. manuf.

See, now I feel the opposite.
[Leviton's resi grade stuff is basically junk IMO. ESPECIALLY their GFIs. I can't stand them.
I have gone to Cooper for pretty much all my devices and cord caps. I think the quality is great.
As far as spec grade stuff both are acceptable.]

I use mostly spec grade receptacles and resi grade switches.

I didn't mean to rate Leviton agains Cooper, which is of high quality. Even the Residential grade. But there is another brand whose Resi. gr. switches and receptacles are of inferior quality!!!:yes::no::drinkon't Drink and Drive!!!

 

[spark plug]

[Wired correctly, off the LINE feed
Why will having GFCI's at each outlet not work ???]

Even wired incorrectly the GFCI's will still trip
Just not sure which will trip 1st & it's pointless to do so

If they're wired correctly --off the LINE feed-- it's pointless to pay ten times as much (80c. vs. $8.00) for something that's there for decorative purposes only! :no::yes::drinkon't Drink and Drive!!!

 

[Scuba_Dave]

I haven't paid $8 for a Levitron GFCI in years
$3 is about the normal
And you now need Tamper proof, so .80 doesn't work either

Again, either way they are wired
Why would they not work?

 

[DIYGST]

Not only is it unnecessary. As you stated yourself. "I understand that all the outlets downstream are protected already". It won't work! I've straightened out jobs where someone tried what you suggested. As far as the brand. I believe (generally) all Leviton products are of a higher quality than some of the other brands!:no::drinkon't Drink and Drive!!!

Confused..
What do you mean won't work? You mean people just installed one upstream but didn't do it properly?