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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My toilet is american standard cadet 3 with 3" flapper. It came as low water use but my main sewer drain (4" cast iron, house built 1920's, don't know if original or replaced) got blocked and my main suspect is the low water incapable of flushing through the drain.
I did 2 things.

1. The flapper is adjustable. Check the videos. The flapper bowl is adjustable from 1 to 10. Factory setting is 1. I also bought korky replacement and it was set to 0. Resetting helped.
2. I also raised the height of the tube for toilet bowl water filler. I used a piece of 1.25" pvc thin wall tube and it slipped on snugly. No need to make it water tight. The fit may depend on the kind and brand of thinwall tube, so you may have to buy several kinds and see which fits. The tube I used is left over from a tail I used for bath. Not sure why I held on to this useless cutoff but somehow it was as if made for just this purpose.:smile: The addition can't be higher than the fill valve setting but adjustment is easy. I also set the fill valve float to max water. The fill valve has a nozzle where bowl filler tube is attached. Remove the tube and you may see a green nipple. The nipple is a restricter that is removed by pulling. Now, higher bowl water
The toilet functions as before but with 2 gallons now.



This created a new problem which is the trip lever which is plastic and making small creaking sound when pressed. I did a short amazon search but after market levers all have some weaknesses. I am looking for lever that is longer and will give more leverage. I would appreciate a headsup on a brand? American standard website has them also but above the ordinary is $30 and up.


This post is here and not plumbing by intent.
 

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Or easy no sweat solution is to simply hold the handle down for # 2, press and release for other flushes.
 

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I also raised the height of the tube for toilet bowl water filler. I used a piece of 1.25" pvc thin wall tube and it slipped on snugly. No need to make it water tight.
I believe that tube extension joint needs to be water tight if you are raising the water level any significant amount above the original tube height.

If your snug fit is water tight, that's good. If the joint is not water tight, water will run up and spill into the overflow tube resulting in a running toilet and significant water use.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Everything is working fine except the lever. Over flow, esp, is limited by the float. More water and 3" flapper is a bit of strain on the plastic lever. Not sure if another plastic will do, although solid plastic is fine with me. Current lever is american standard, bought from its site. Amazon has brass arm lever, but review says its pewter (?) and broke easily. Another fake. So, is it possible to find such levers when more water was used and tank was taller, although $30 and up feels too much, or am I not understanding 2020 prices?:smile:
True, I haven't gone to the physical stores. Was wondering if anybody knew the sources.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
3 descriptions and one item.:smile: That is the exact lever (at least the photo) with one review saying the lever rod is pewter, not brass. Will try the store. At least the stores aren't filled with fake products.
 

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Worst case, if that lever arm is still too short, you can cut it and extend with a piece of aluminum/stainless tube whose ID matches the arm's OD.
 

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3 descriptions and one item.:smile: That is the exact lever (at least the photo) with one review saying the lever rod is pewter, not brass. Will try the store. At least the stores aren't filled with fake products.



You do realize that pewter is a metal alloy??
 

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And yet everyone laughed at Trump for bitshing about having to flush the toilet 6-7x to get **** to go....

Saving water is one thing... but when you have to flush a bunch of times, or face face costly plumber services because your toilet is 'eco friendly'

At some point you gotta ask... REALLY?!
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I didn't know exactly what pewter was. I had an impression that it was something like a cast-iron, brittle? Anyway, the review was about how easily the arm snapped where he tried to bend it, I think. The lever looks like it's straight, from the lever to the arm. I would need to bend it about 30 deg. That arm is 8" to the last hole, whereas the AS is 6, and last 2 would have to be cut off, or it would hit the fill tube. It says it's universal, but I'm not sure if it also works on about 5/8" square lever hole.
It looks like this tank was made fairly exact to the rules of low water use, and the mods are affecting even the lever.
There are other reviews that say they bent the arm and everything is fine. As such, I'm going to try the store. HD takes returns fairly easily.

BTW, in nj and one store said it would not accept returns without the receipt. New rules. Same store that changed all of its bags from plastic to paper.


Our president: I laugh at him because he thinks at my level. We laugh at eachother, so why not him?:smile: Changing demographics, voting patterns and international trade (about out sourcing) were issues that surfaced about 30 yrs (?) ago. Remember when we were burning toyotas? At the time, thinking about how these things can be changed to the benefit of USA, I thought it would take a crazy leadership. I feel good because I was proven right.:smile::smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At homedepot, found korky strongarm lever assembly. The handle is substantial, spring loaded. I don't like the plastic clips that anchor the moving joints but everything else looks very good. The end of the handle even sticks out past tank's edge.:smile: Lots of leverage and easier push now without the creaking noise.
 
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