[rdy2go]

The house has a third car space added, with 2x4 unfinished walls standing over a concrete block foundation with 2x6 plate. I am in the process of finishing it as a workshop and I want to make the wall 6" for better insulation.

I will use the table saw to rip 2x6 studs in 2" strips, which will then be used to fur the 2x4. Since I do not have a framing nailer, am thinking that using TORX construction screws with an impact driver will be way faster that using nails. What size of screws should I use? #9 or #10? 4" or 4 1/2"? How many per stud?

Should also use some liquid nails?

 

[dj3]

You can even use drywall screws - 3" will be enough. You really don't need glue, just enough screws.
Don't you think that sistering 2x4s with 2" sticking forward could be easier?
No mess, no sweat.

 

[CodeMatters]

I did sort of the same thing recently, but very different approach:

Renovating room that included door to outside.
Will eventually change door and chose to make wall 2x6 thickness in advance.
Removed existing drywall and wood paneling....Yes. Both.
Made some wiring changes, including moving boxes out to protrude ~1 7/8"
from existing 2x4s and adding insulation behind each.
Added 2 layers of 1"x4'x8' of "Energyshield" metal coated styrofoam.
--one layer horizontal, other layer vertical, to avoid joints lining up.
--taped all joints with Tuck tape
Drywall over with longest drywall screws I could find.

Had the wall not included an outside door, I may have only added 1 layer styrofoam.

 

[joecaption]

One issue you may have with screws is the wood will be more likely to split unless you predrill the holes in the strips being added.

 

[XSleeper]

I think 3 1/8" is the common size with the GRK torx. Either #9 or #10 really doesnt matter... whatever costs less. LOL. You only need 1" of embedment. No glue needed. A longer screw is just a waste of time and $$$.

If you want to make it easy, predrill your holes in the 2x2 slightly larger than the screw shank. 3/16". That way you will be sure the 2x2s all stay tight and the screw doesn't force them away as it enters the stud behind. Screws 24" on center would be sufficient unless your pieces are really warped.

 

[Marson]

You can even use drywall screws - 3" will be enough. You really don't need glue, just enough screws.
Don't you think that sistering 2x4s with 2" sticking forward could be easier?
No mess, no sweat.

If the OP is insulating with batts, it would be difficult to insulate with a sistered 2x4. With spray foam, it wouldn't matter.

 

[CodeMatters]

I did sort of the same thing recently, but very different approach:

Renovating room that included door to outside.
Will eventually change door and chose to make wall 2x6 thickness in advance.
Removed existing drywall and wood paneling....Yes. Both.
Made some wiring changes, including moving boxes out to protrude ~1 7/8"
from existing 2x4s and adding insulation behind each.
Added 2 layers of 1"x4'x8' of "Energyshield" metal coated styrofoam.
--one layer horizontal, other layer vertical, to avoid joints lining up.
--taped all joints with Tuck tape
Drywall over with longest drywall screws I could find.

Had the wall not included an outside door, I may have only added 1 layer styrofoam.

Minor correction (too late to edit): Moved boxes to protrude ~2 3/8".

 

[rdy2go]

Don't you think that sistering 2x4s with 2" sticking forward could be easier?
No mess, no sweat.

"I will use the table saw to rip 2x6 studs in 2" strips..."

 

[CaptTom]

I've done it a few different ways. One I like is to just make a new 2x6 wall. In other words, new 2x6's in between, but not necessarily touching, the existing 2x4s. The outer sheathing is fastened to the old wall, the sheetrock to the new one. Yes, you have to slit the insulation batts (if that's what you're using) to go around the 2x4s. But you've cut way down on noise, vibration and to some extent heat passing from outside to inside.

Same trick for inside walls separating, say, two bedrooms or a bedroom and a bathroom. Use different studs for each wall, from a different starting point. Use 2x3 studs on a 2x4 base. That air gap really cuts down on sound transmission.

Obviously, that's more work and materials than a builder planning to sell is going to do, but if you're going to live there yourself, it's well worth it.

 

[rdy2go]

One problem area I have is the garage door. Any ideas about what needs to be done?

 

[dj3]

One problem area I have is the garage door. Any ideas about what needs to be done?

You will need to re-do the door jamb.

 

[rdy2go]

You will need to re-do the door jamb.

A quick search tell me a new door jamb is $350. Ouch!


But my concern, other than the jamb, which I had not thought of, is the actual door and related spring mechanism, rails, opener... all of which need to be moved back 2 1/2". I do not feel comfortable touching the spring mechanism. So that means the door service has to get involved. Probably two service calls in the same day, early and late. More $.

 

[Biscuits]

When you build out your 2 x 6 wall, have it stepped back from the garage door 4", or 6", or whatever makes sense.

Then you don't need to mess with the door.

 

[rdy2go]

When you build out your 2 x 6 wall, have it stepped back from the garage door 4", or 6", or whatever makes sense.

Then you don't need to mess with the door.

That is the backup plan :smile:

 

[kaalapurushha]

Is the wall an interior wall? If it is, you should put up some xps on the bottom plate lip, then a freestanding 2x4 secured to the slab.

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[rdy2go]

Is the wall an interior wall? If it is, you should put up some xps on the bottom plate lip, then a freestanding 2x4 secured to the slab.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

The walls are exterior. Concrete block base to compensate for hill. Pressure treated 2x6 on top, with 2x4wall resting on it, leaving 2" open on the inside.

 

[Nealtw]

The walls are exterior. Concrete block base to compensate for hill. Pressure treated 2x6 on top, with 2x4wall resting on it, leaving 2" open on the inside.

Is this a garage and are you worried about insulation?

 

[rdy2go]

Is this a garage and are you worried about insulation?

Yes, hopefully insulation in the future.

 

[Nealtw]

Yes, hopefully insulation in the future.

There are 4 ways we might deal with that, I am sure there is more.

1. 2x4 wall in front of the concrete to at least 6" above the concrete.

2. 2x4 wall full height

3 same as 1. but with 2x4 on the flat when you are not worried about insulation.

4. 2x2s added to the upper wall with 1/2" plywood spacers so it matches the depth of the 2x6.

 

[rdy2go]

There are 4 ways we might deal with that, I am sure there is more.

1. 2x4 wall in front of the concrete to at least 6" above the concrete.

2. 2x4 wall full height

3 same as 1. but with 2x4 on the flat when you are not worried about insulation.

4. 2x2s added to the upper wall with 1/2" plywood spacers so it matches the depth of the 2x6.

There are only 3" to 4" of visible concrete block exposed on the inside. I see no need to insulate the wall inside, and there is actually some foam board outside.


I am using a variation of your #4. In most studs I have and will be adding a 2" piece ripped from wider stock. In a few others, I have used a 1 1/2" strip with 1/2" strip of plywood. I got some materials delivered yesterday. Hopefully I will get it done in a couple of days.