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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Plumbing Pros--

I currently have an !/2" OD copper tube running from a 250 gallon propane tank to my pool heater... I would like to "tee" off of this connection and pipe propane to my outdoor kitchen... Pipe to the outdoor kitchen is 3/4" iron pipe...

I have about a 13" span between the two pipes... How would you guys "Tee" and connect these two different pipe types???

Thanks much

Roger V
Navarre, FL
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Build or buy a manifold.

I've never worked with copper for gas.
Q: Is there a special fitting used between the copper and steel?
(is it needed like with WH dielectric unions?)
Thanks... I would prefer to just put a 3-way "T" at the copper joint and then run something to the cast... I am guessing there is a special adaptor to go from copper to steel, kind of why I asked the question in the first place...

Thanks much

Roger V
 

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If you are connecting between the tank and pressure regulator, you will need another regulator near the kitchen. Pressure in the tank is too high for appliances. Also, last time I checked black iron is not approved for direct bury in the soil. You should switch to poly tubing designed for gas and run a tracer wire with it. Plenty of transition fittings for that product. Areas vary for bury depth, but minimum would be 12"
 
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I would also suggest looking into CSST. It is much easier to work with than either copper (which requires a flare fitting) and black pipe. Plus, it is very flexible.

And, I am not sure that you can get a flared Tee. Copper for Gas is not the same as copper for plumbing. If you haven't done it before, TALK TO A LICENSED CONTRACTOR. IF you get a leak with water, you get a flood, if you get a leak with gas, well, you make the news. IF you are still around that is.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you are connecting between the tank and pressure regulator, you will need another regulator near the kitchen. Pressure in the tank is too high for appliances. Also, last time I checked black iron is not approved for direct bury in the soil. You should switch to poly tubing designed for gas and run a tracer wire with it. Plenty of transition fittings for that product. Areas vary for bury depth, but minimum would be 12"
Thanks!! There is a regulator at the tank as well, but each appliance came with their own regulator, so there will be one at the grill and stove... I did use poly-tubing in the ground and detectable warning tape (avg depth 18")... When you say transition fittings, are you talking about the Tee???

vr
Roger V
 

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First thing you need to do is to figure out for sure if you need to tie your pipe in before or after that regulator. I know you said the new stuff has it's own regulators, but that in itself doesn't mean anything.

I don't do a lot of work with propane, but many times you need a main regulator (like you appear to have there), and then another smaller regulator at each appliance.

Either way, it looks easy to do. The fitting on the copper looks like a standard flare nut with an adapter that goes to 3/4" male pipe threads into the regulator.

If connecting your pipe before the regulator loosen the flare nut, remove the adapter, install a steel 3/4" tee with a nipple into the regulator and put the adapter and flare connection back into the bottom of the tee. Test with soap to make sure there aren't any leaks.

If connecting your new pipe after the regulator loosen the flare nut and disconnect the copper, spin the regulator off of the steel pipe, install a steel tee with nipple onto the steel pipe, spin the regulator back on and reconnect the flare nut with copper. Test with soap.

You don't need any special dialectric fittings between copper and steel gas piping, if that's what you were asking. You just need a way to go from copper to pipe threads, which usually means using flare fittings or standard solder-type fittings with high temperature brazing alloy instead of soft solder.

Also, copper gas pipe is the same as copper water pipe. At least it is where I live. As long as it is at least "Type L" it should be OK. Soft copper is sometimes sold by it's O.D. dimensions instead of it's I.D. dimensions like hard copper usually is, which creates confusion, but it's the same pipe and can be used for either purpose.

Some areas of the country might require "Type K" copper for gas, (which is thicker), but you don't need to know this for the job you're doing. Just deal with the steel pipe threads that are already there and you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ayuh,..... Where does the iron pipe come into the equation,..??
These attach to the poly at each end where you come out of the ground... They have 3/4" threads that fit an iron pipe thread... Thought it easier to just start off with the 3/4 iron pipe threads, but should've detailed the entire run, sorry!!!

vr
Roger V
 

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but should've detailed the entire run, sorry!!!
Ayuh,...... From the threads in the regulator's out port, a close nipple, then a pipe T, down to the side orientation,...

In the down port of the T, screw in the fittin' ya took out of the regulator,.....

In the side port of the T, use whatever fittin's ya need to run yer pipe connection into it,....
 
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