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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Condo 1985 The problem I am having is that the 220v free standing range (4 burners + oven) must be turned "on" in order to get power to the 4 110v kitchen above counter wall outlets, the range hood fan and light, garage outlets, yet the oven/range itself does not turn on.

When I turn the 2 oven dials (1 mode--1 temp) off, everything in the kitchen 110v outlets turns off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
has this always been a problem or did it just start?
It is a recent problem that seems sporadic, but now more definitive since I ran the a/c (another 220 circuit) all day. This is where is gets complicated. The a/c totally shut down a few hours ago, but now it will come on about halfway power, which also will turn on the 110v outlets previously mentioned, but only halfway.

In other words, (and this is from recent experience here), when all circuits are cold, everything works as expected, the 110's and 220's. However, When they heat up from prolonged use, I get this kitchen 110 power being dependent on oven and a/c supplied power.

When the circuits have cooled, everything resumes performing normally.

You see, this is why I am confused. How are my 110 outlets (kitchen and garage only) linked to the performance of the double pole a/c and/or oven-range?
 

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That is a confusing problem lol. My guess would be a loose neutral somewhere, and since its affecting multiple circuits maybe its in the panel?
That's my best guess but maybe one of the pros could enlighten us both lol.
 

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Master Electrician
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It does sound like it could be loose connections in the panel, meter socket, point of connection to the utility, etc. If you’re unfamiliar with these connections and the dangers involved, best to have an electrician check them.
 

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Probably one of the two hot lines (120/240 volt service has two hot lines) is giving problems.

When this happens, many receptacles will be dead, namely receptacles connected to that half of the service. Turning on a 240 volt appliance allows current to go through that appliance to feed some of the 120 volt receptacles, subject to low voltage problems depending on how much current is drawn.

While you are at it, you might as well tighten all of the screws and set screws holding wires in the breaker panel. Have someone with a lot of electrical experience tighten the big lugs holding the fat incoming wires. You can measure voltage yourself (with all 240 volt appliances and water heater switched off and with some 120 volt things (more than compact fluorescent lighting) turned on.

If you are not getting 240 volts between the two fat hot wires and also 120 volts between each fat hot wire and the fat neutral in the panel, you should have the power company come over to look at the meter box.
 

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Semi-Pro Electro-Geek
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Not a loose neutral, and not all that confusing really. You have lost one hot leg. Turning on the stove backfeeds the dead leg from the live one through the heating elements. Are all of these things on a subpanel, or otherwise separated from the rest of the house? If so, then check the feed to the subpanel. If not, then check your incoming power to the main breaker. The problem could be as far upstream as the power company's transformer.
 

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Just something else to consider, you said "condo." It is very likely that you can't do any of your own electrical work. Check with your AHJ.

Best to call an electrician.
 

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While you are at it, you might as well tighten all of the screws and set screws holding wires in the breaker panel. Have someone with a lot of electrical experience tighten the big lugs holding the fat incoming wires.
A lot of experience is not the only requirement. Insulated tools and proper protective equipment would also be needed. Doing this in the wrong method could potentially kill someone.

It would also be advisable to check the conductor integrity to see if it has been degraded by any arcing from a loose connection.
 
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