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Hi,

I've recently started setting up my own Home Inspection business here in Maryland (where I am licensed). I've come across a situation with my own system above my second floor in my two story home. Two summers ago the drain from the unit got backed up and the drain pan below over-flowed and caused considerable damage to the ceiling in the Master Bathroom below. The service tech said that the galvanized drain pan under the unit should have been piped up with a secondary drain out to the soffit on the house to prevent the pan from over-flowing. I put this pipe in and tested it. That part worked great, however, I believe the galvanized pan has rusted through somewhere because the little bit of water left in the pan that did not drain out of the secondary drain pipe (i.e. because it is below the level of where the pipe comes into the side of the pan) is leaking through the bottom somewhere. Has anyone on this message user group experienced anything like this? What do I need to do to replace this galvanized pan with a plastic one and where can I get the plastic pans? I would imagine that I could temporarily suspend the unit from the rafters and raise up off the 2 x 4 's that the unit is currently setting on that are inside the galvanized pan long enough to replace the pan. I'm guessing I can raise it about an .125 to .250 inches in order to do this without disturbing much anything. Unless someone can give me a better solution or point me to a website for direction that will save me money in these tough economic times.

Please advise,

Steve
 

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Pan

This Might help you.

Install a plastic pan under the unit with a float switch in series with the yellow (cooling demand) to shut off the unit when it senses water in the pan.
The pans and switches are available at the supply house.
Make sure when you install the pan and switch you test it by filling the pan with water when the unit is operating and the unit shuts off before the water goes over the pan.
The switches are designed to fit right over the lip of the pan.
You can even set the unit in the pan with vibration isolators under it if it a platform type setup.
 

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Tell them exactly what you want. It shouldn't cost you more than $50 if they are prepared.
How do you know, what companies in his area charge to come to the door.

It could be a 75 dollar fee just to come out.
Plus a lot more to supply and wire it in.


Plus as kenmac points out.

He has to replace his leaking pan first, before he worries about weather to use a float/moisture sensor switch.
 

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If you feel comfortable doing a little bit of low voltage wiring, just throw in a float switch. They're cheap and reliable. Check out kele.com. It is more or less a relay that makes or breaks the 24V "call for cooling" signal to your AC unit's compressor before the pan overflows. Yeah, your cooling cuts out, but it's better than the alternative. We used to put them in all our high-end hotels. But, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, call a good local HVAC spam with a controls dept. Tell them exactly what you want. It shouldn't cost you more than $50 if they are prepared.
If you will notice, jobtriopres is self promoting his own services with his "contractor" link:shifty:

Get a new poly drainpan and a float/moisture switch. They can be DIY projects, but really, the money spent to do it right (i.e. get an HVAC dude or dudette out to do it right), pales in comparison to the cost of water in your master bedroom ceiling and all the other ills that go along with this nightmare:sweatdrop:

Good Luck
Jay
 

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LOL.

I know what you mean. He was pathetic in his price.

I reported him, for free advertising.

Its in the rules about no posting links to sites you have direct affiliation with.

Besides, without ad money. Its hard for a site like this to stay up.
 
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