Latex paint is not going to be much of a release agent. There are all kinds of release agents you can put on for concrete form release---even over fillers you have used to even out defects in the form surface. Check to see what your building supply company has availed.
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Any depression in the plywood that would require fill would result in a protrusion in the poured wall if not filled in the plywood. (basic)
so...
Why not leave it as-is, go ahead and pour the concrete, and then remove the forms as soon as practical and rub the wall's surface with a rubbing stone while it is still green?
so...
Why not leave it as-is, go ahead and pour the concrete, and then remove the forms as soon as practical and rub the wall's surface with a rubbing stone while it is still green?
Plastic film will transmit any imperfections that may exist in the plywood. The longer you wait to break forms the harder it will be to correct the wall's appearance. If you break the forms ASAP the wall can be uniformly scuffed/rubbed overall for a nice finish. If you wait a couple of weeks the task will change and not for the better. If you think you have to slow the cure of the wall for more strength then bust the forms ASAP, rub the surface, then cover it with plastic for a couple of weeks if you think there is something to be gained by doing so.
Oh Lordy! Wish you hadn't brought that up.:no:
A concrete vibrator in the hands of the inexperienced can result in disaster.
Sh-h-h-h-h-h! He'll be fine as-is, no vibrators.
I've seen forms striped the same day ... but these where some skinny columns in between block wall not a 6' retaining wall.
I think if you strip em down next morning you will still be able to scrape some of the stuff of.
I've seen plastic used in couple occasions...it will leave surface perfectly smooth in the areas where is stretched out but man will it leave a mess if it gets crumpled up or concrete gets behind it.
I've actually spent few weeks fixing a ceiling that was poured with plastic visqueen over the forms (Europe).
I was not there while they where pouring that ceiling but my "guess" would be that they didn't secure the plastic to the plywood and stuff got all crumpled up in between rebar.
You guys wouldn't believe how bad did that ceiling look like.
There are different grades of plywood.. if you are going to use a CDX ply for the forms there is no "oil" or paint on this world that will cover all of those holes.
Use one smooth side plywood ,oil and VIBRATOR and you will achieve some very satisfying results.
Oh Lordy! Wish you hadn't brought that up.:no:
A concrete vibrator in the hands of the inexperienced can result in disaster.
Sh-h-h-h-h-h! He'll be fine as-is, no vibrators.
What is going to happen if he uses a shaft vibrator?
Skim coating over newly poured stuf will work but you are looking at the work that can be avoided now using better plywood.
AC or BX ply its only 20% more than CDX and unless you are doing a mile long retaining wall that is a money well spent.
I think if you strip em down next morning you will still be able to scrape some of the stuff of.
I've seen plastic used in couple occasions...it will leave surface perfectly smooth in the areas where is stretched out but man will it leave a mess if it gets crumpled up or concrete gets behind it.
I've actually spent few weeks fixing a ceiling that was poured with plastic visqueen over the forms (Europe).
I was not there while they where pouring that ceiling but my "guess" would be that they didn't secure the plastic to the plywood and stuff got all crumpled up in between rebar.
You guys wouldn't believe how bad did that ceiling look like.
There are different grades of plywood.. if you are going to use a CDX ply for the forms there is no "oil" or paint on this world that will cover all of those holes.
Use one smooth side plywood ,oil and VIBRATOR and you will achieve some very satisfying results.
Oh Lordy! Wish you hadn't brought that up.:no:
A concrete vibrator in the hands of the inexperienced can result in disaster.
Sh-h-h-h-h-h! He'll be fine as-is, no vibrators.
What is going to happen if he uses a shaft vibrator?
Skim coating over newly poured stuf will work but you are looking at the work that can be avoided now using better plywood.
AC or BX ply its only 20% more than CDX and unless you are doing a mile long retaining wall that is a money well spent.
Steel Toes this site has some fairly nifty features for quoting and stuff like that. You should learn to use them. It would make your comments easier to understand.
You have never seen wall-forms blow out from the over-use of a vibrator have you? It's not a pretty sight, and it's not easy to clean up. He doesn't need a vibrator necessarily.
Steel Toes this site has some fairly nifty features for quoting and stuff like that. You should learn to use them. It would make your comments easier to understand.
You have never seen wall-forms blow out from the over-use of a vibrator have you? It's not a pretty sight, and it's not easy to clean up. He doesn't need a vibrator necessarily.
I know Bud but my brain doesn’t always listen to me nor it does things in order :lol:
I spend one of my summer breaks working for the company that was specialized in building weight stations.
I was that new guy assigned to work with concrete vibrator. :furious::furious:
No they don’t need a vibrator, necessarily, but one would definitely help them achieve what they want.
Good advice.
I've had them bow, buckle, moan and groan but I've never a true blow-out, and I've poured some really crappy looking forms built by really crappy carpenters. So I dont think that it would be to hard for a home owner to build forms strong enough to vibrate.
I do believe that any wall poured and not vibrated was not done correctly. It's not a hard tool to learn how to use, I got a 60sec. lesson once as the pre-mix trucks were pulling into the lot. You just drop the dick in the mix and let it fall at it's own pace when it hits bottom or close to it you pull it out at the same rate that it fell......overlap the pattern by 1/3 all the way down the wall.
What's to gripe about thats one of the best jobs on a large concrete pour. I learned the same way but contractors really really like to have a crew with plenty of experiance climbing around on large walls.........It makes for job security and it feels nice standing up high on the forms watching everyone else dig trenchesI was that new guy assigned to work with concrete vibrator. :furious::furious:
Agreed.
STL B.
I read what you said about working with the vibrator being a best job on the site but man i still remember pulling that thing back and forth ...standing in concrete almost up to my knees
Seriously. I still remember
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