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Sbass
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so I'm thinking of putting in a concrete drainage ditch to get water from the backyard to the drainage culvert near the street.
Anytime we get a heavy rain the backyard turns into what looks like 3 or 4 small lakes. Even in summer months(in south louisiana), after a hard rain the yard can take a week to dry. I have kids and kids like to play in the yard so this is unacceptable.
Since the yard already wants to drain toward the driveway side of the property, I plan to bring in some dirt and get the entire yards water to drain toward the end of the driveway (possible french drain installation).
The problem I have is that the driveway is the edge of the property line.
My plan is to cut out about a 2' section of the driveway and pour a concrete ditch that runs the length of the driveway (130') and grade it to where the water will "shoot" down the ditch. I was thinking about a minimum 7" wide concrete pour in the shape of a "U". And about 1" every 10' drop to the culvert.
My idea was to pour the bottom 3 inches of the concrete ditch first and get that graded down. I would have u shaped rebar in the first pour to reinforce the bottom and side walls Then go back and pour the walls to where the top of the "U" shaped pour is level with the driveway. It wouldn't be any fancy curved swale or nothing just simple right angles. That would leave me with a 7" gap on the far side of my driveway.
So, I wanted to get some bar grating to cover up the top of the ditch so cars won't drive into it. The bar grating is expensive! I got a quote for 130' @ $4000.
I think I can figure out how to mix and pour the concrete at the proper grade, but I am stuck on a efficient low cost way to cover the opening and still be able to access it if it gets clogged.
I think I got enough details in. If anyone has any feedback or ideas, any help apreciated. I will post a couple pics
 

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Sbass
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, I agree. I have a friend bringing over a transit next weekend to help me shoot some grades. But let's just say it is a 16" drop over 130'. I am not concerned with the grade. The culvert at the street has a grate that sits below, and the basin goes down a good 3 feet. The yard is already draining that way. Shouldn't be an issue.
 

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Sbass
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The house next door was repo'd and another neighbor bought it to flip it. I already tried to get him to go in half with me on fixing both yards and he said no. I told him I was bringing in dirt and grading towards his property, and if necessary putting in my own ditch.

My yard already (kinda) drains out onto his property and to the street. His property has the natural ditch that gets water from both our yards to the street. The only problem is it doesn't work. His side does not drain and he won't cut down the tree that has grown so large it is completely blocking the path that water flows.

So I want to contain my water and get mine out regardless of what his side does
 

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ok. hows about a french drain down the side of your driveway ?
cheap, easy, fast. and no one but you would know its there = the future owners could not have an issue with something they don't know about.
 

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Sbass
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I still need to be able to use that side of the driveway. ie if I cut a section out to place in a drain or ditch, I sill need to be able to cover it back up so I can drive on it
 

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yeah, well. it would be cheap easy and probably effective. and the only real problem with doing it that way = if they wanted to put a fence there, "if" they could put a fence there.

and while i DO NOT advocate using other peoples property. its only a couple inch's and, it could not be seen.

anyway
the only other sensable solution i see is a concrete swale on the side of the driveway = remove about 1 1/2' down the side, built the swale. you would be able to drive on this, but most likely wouldn't. and no expencive grating.
 

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Sbass
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
So, along the driveway right on the property line there is lots of trees that would have to come down in order for me to just install a french drain. Therefore, I'd have to cut down trees that aren't mine. It just wouldn't work. I thought about the swale too!
I just thought it'd be easier as a novice to make 3 pours. 1 for the bottom, side, and side. Concrete man told me a swale would Crack if driven on.

Also, I'm not sure a 4" french drain would be big enough to drain the entire bckyard. The pump takes out 70gpm and still can't keep up when it rains hard. There is a 1.5inch discharge on it. I doubt a french drain will keep up.

By the time I wait for a french drain to get the water out, the water will all soak in and become subsurface water. An issue that I am trying to fix.
 

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My property ends about 4 inches or less from the driveway. I'm not spending money on drainage to put on his property
You are going to have a hard time controlling water that wants to go to its natural wetlands, which is pretty much what the back of the properties are.

Pull the flood plain maps from usgs.gov. It should also give you some grade info.

The best way to attack this is to just put a Dry well in the back to let the water drain into it, then run at least 8-12" Black Corrugated drain tile under the ground. That way you do not have to deal with all of the work and hassle of building a culvert that you do not even know will work at this point.
 
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