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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The title may say it all as this is new territory to me.
Live in Florida, 2016 home, concrete block - standard Florida issue and build.
West exterior wall has concrete pads where AC and pool equipment are anchored. Sun stresses everything here, and 4 year old pool equipment is taking a beating. To slow the deterioration, I was going to construct a simple angled cover with fiberglass panels. When I added costs, time and the important fact that it would probably not withstand our wind, I looked elsewhere.
Found a 8" X 7 " awning, retractable, mounts with 2 brackets, 4 concrete anchor bolts.
The awning will be 6' from the ground so I have no header to use to mount.
The awning is retractable and I will using it as 8' W X 6' out.
Question is not simple, because stucco covers cinder block.
First ignorant guess, if I could find 2 seams or cinder block "studs" the correct distance apart, I could mount using the supplied sleeve anchors (or replacing with epoxy anchors). The brackets are simple 2 hole that stick out about an inch from their mounting, the awning slides in and is held by 2 vertical bolts.
Second ignorant guess, mount a 2" X 6" X 8' board with 8 or 10 (12??) epoxy anchors drilling into cinder block as necessary and mount the brackets/awning to the board. The awning is removable and would be removed in case of a hurricane, but wind shears of 40-50 mph happen quite often and unexpectedly.
I would like to keep my wall intact and mount this properly, so any help is greatly appreciated. Added 2 pictures for a little clarity.
FYI, I know one solution would be to fill 2 cinder blocks from outside with cement, then drill and mount anchors - it seems inelegant, and I'm still not sure of the stress on the block or if I have the skill to even accomplish that.
 

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Block her 8”x 16” long Which means if you drill a hole and find the cavity will be another cavity every 16 inches and you can do you toggle bolts if you drill a hole and find a stud or the web of the block you’ll find another one every 16 inchesAnd you could use tap cons you can also drill more holes in your bracket to have a total of four or five across


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
wouldn't web's strength be stronger for pullout AND shear ?
Sorry. web's strength?
I do not understand the referral, but I certainly am concerned about pullout and shear! I'm pretty confident toggles would be insufficient. But is there another way to spread weight/stress and maintain integrity?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Block her 8”x 16” long Which means if you drill a hole and find the cavity will be another cavity every 16 inches and you can do you toggle bolts if you drill a hole and find a stud or the web of the block you’ll find another one every 16 inchesAnd you could use tap cons you can also drill more holes in your bracket to have a total of four or five across
When you say the web of the block, I'm sorry, but I do not understand the reference. My issue is FINDING those seams/web under stucco and hopefully avoiding the cavities. Using them would let me safely use sleeve anchors. Any thoughts? Hit and miss by drill seems a little old fashioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just saw on my blueprints I have a "grouted cell block" with rebar every 7' in the exterior walls. Would this imply or refer to a "filled" vertical column of cells? And would this be the place to start measuring from to find the web or seams of the block?
 

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locating the exact spot's going to be tough BUT, if the fill'd column of grouted cells falls right for your attachment, that's the place - lags & lead drop-in's
 
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