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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm considering a concrete pad for a new shed. The shed will be 10x16. I assume that an 11x17 concrete pad would be adequate. I'm satisfied with the driveway I had done a couple years ago, and will be calling the same guys to do the concrete shed pad.

How far up from ground level should should the concrete pad be?

How thick should the concrete be? 4" minimum, the same as the driveway?

If I go with 11x17, that means there will be 6" of concrete on each side of the shed. Should this 6" edge be angled down to allow for water runoff when it rains?

What about anchors? Should the shed be anchored to the concrete or will it be fine sitting on top? My old shed sat on cinderblocks in the dirt, which is why I am asking. If anchors are required, how do I determine the placement of the anchors before the shed is built?
 

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A 4 inch pad will be great for a shed.

I would give myself a couple of extra feet on all sides , for a better walk way around it, and as storage for pots and such.

The shed itself should be built on skids so it can be moved if necessary, with anchors at all corners due to windy conditions at times.

Placed at the same level as your sidewalks, so mowing around it will be similar to mowing the rest of the yard.


ED
 

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Depending on any drainage issues and how you plan to build your shed, wood shed siding should not touch grade. You might have difficulty troweling a 6" slope around the perimeter and it will require you to locate where the shed will go fairly accurately.

The shed will likely sit on the pad just fine until a storm decides otherwise. I would tie the shed to the pad with bolts embedded in the pad. Depending on your municipality, a shed that size may require a building permit and, if so, the decision to anchor it or not may be made for you.
 

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If you pore the slab bigger then the shed will be and attach it directly to the slab there's a 100% chance of water getting in under the walls and the siding will rot if not at least 6" above grade.
What a bigger slab then do yourself a favor and build it with a stem wall or set it on skids as suggested. If you go with the skids use 4 so the floor does not end up sagging in the middle and mess up the door alignment.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ste...MAhXIWT4KHUtlA7oQsAQIKA#imgrc=QjOmMyi2xA0JuM:
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
My thinking was that the shed would be on skids, but instead of putting it on cinder blocks in the dirt like my old shed was, have it on a concrete pad. The concrete pad wouldn't be the actual floor to the shed, just a solid platform for it to sit on. The only part of the shed touching the concrete would be the skids.

I think I have narrowed it down to one of two shed builders. One uses the skids, the other uses a steel frame for the floor and says that it can be placed directly on the ground.

Building the shed myself is do-able, but I am only one person. What would take me a few days to complete could be done in a few hours by hiring it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Around here there is a Shed builder, that builds them in advance in their shop, then it is delivered on a trailer, and placed with a forklift.

You get a shed in less than a half hour.

ED
I almost went that route, right up until I measured how to get it into my back yard. My gate opens up 10ft 3in wide and the roof of the house hangs over the gate. There's no way anyone could get a 10 x 16 shed through there without hitting the house, especially with 6ft side walls. So, anything new will have to be built on site.
 

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I almost went that route, right up until I measured how to get it into my back yard. My gate opens up 10ft 3in wide and the roof of the house hangs over the gate. There's no way anyone could get a 10 x 16 shed through there without hitting the house, especially with 6ft side walls. So, anything new will have to be built on site.
This local solves those kind of problems with an extendable lift.

Lifts the shed outside the yard, extends the forks over the fence, places the shed, and then goes inside the yard if necessary to place the shed wherever you want it.

Interesting thing to watch.

ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
This local solves those kind of problems with an extendable lift.

Lifts the shed outside the yard, extends the forks over the fence, places the shed, and then goes inside the yard if necessary to place the shed wherever you want it.

Interesting thing to watch.

ED
I bet it is interesting watch, but still wouldn't work for me. As much as I would like things the easiest way, it never is. I appreciate the info.

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Would there be any issue with having the shed on skids, or steel frame and be placed directly on the concrete slab? The siding would be at least 4" off the concrete. Or, would I just be better off having it done like my old shed was with skids sitting on concrete blocks?

Wouldn't this look better than having it sit on the ground?




The two shed builders that I am considering are:

http://elensonbuildings.com/

Their sheds are on skids, built on site.

and Tuff Shed.

http://www.tuffshed.com/

Their sheds are on a steel frame, prefabricated to your order, and assembled on site.

Before I get flamed, I have read that this is not the cheapy tuffsheds you see sitting out front of HomeDepot. From what I have read on various forums, there's two different types that they make. The less quality models that you see on display at HD, and then the better built models which come with a better warranty.

Both are made in the same factory, but with different quality of materials. They say don't order from HomeDepot or 888tuffshed.com. 888tuffshed is the website that HD uses. Order direct though the main link or by calling the number at the main link. If I go with Tuff Shed, I intend to go for the better quality shed.

If I am wrong, then flame away. Correct me. Let me have it. Better to know now instead of after I decide. :)
 

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The only thing that I can think of about Skids on a slab, it that eventually the wood might decay a bit, but if PT skids are used that will be delayed a lot.


I remembered another way I saw a shed moved.

The local High School Football coach had a shed he wanted moved.

He got 4 pipes long enough to span the width plus 4 feet extra, ran the pipes under the shed in 4 equi-distant places, with two feet sticking out either side, then got his players (8) to pick up the shed and carry it to where he wanted it.


ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
If you are going to build a wooden floor and raise it up why even bother with a slab. Just set a few supports on the ground or drill some post holes and fill sonotubes with concrete in each corner.The whole reason I see for the slab so that it can be floor.
Maybe I am just overthinking this, and should look into building a gravel pad like this:



If I go for a gravel pad, what do I need? 4x4 PT boards to make the frame? Landscaping fabric to keep the weeds from growing? And, what kind of gravel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
To update this thread, I have decided to go a different route with my shed. All site prep will be done by the shed builders, and the shed will be built on site. It will be a 10 x 16 metal barn on skids. Big double doors and 6ft side walls. I went and had a look at their buildings and really liked them over my previous 2 choices. The metal building was $1600 cheaper than my plans for the Tuff Shed (not counting site prep). I'm satisfied, especially since I had planned to dig post holes and sonotubes for the day, which I no longer have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
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