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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Geez- start the car in the morning (about 65 degrees here), turn the wheel to the right, in reverse, clutch grips/chattery like, so choppy.

Then, go home after work, and no chatter/roughness. Huh??? Do clutches like warm temps better?

Oh- 1987 Sunbird GT, original owner, 196,000 miles, original clutch (yea).
 

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Condensation on the flywheel over night and the springs in the clutch disk are getting weak causing it to chatter. I know my Toyota 4X4 will do that after it sits for a while and the flywheel gets a little rust on it, and the clutch plate springs are weak.
 

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196,000 Miles on OEM clutch? You are doing something good.:vs_karate: But ya might go ahead and see how much a replacement costs. I'm sure this isn't the first time it did it. Clutch kit from NAPA is $270.00 Part# NCF 1104046, Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack. Didn't see a flywheel so you will have to have it turned unless you can find a replacement. Yes turned just like a brake rotor or drum but on a flywheel turner, not a brake lathe as it won't get out the hot spots. If you don't, you run the risk of it shaking on engagement. Now would be a good time to change 1 piece rear main seal as it is right there. Remember to lube it up before installation. And if you see seepage from the slave cylinder, might want to change that also. New part puts more of a load on old slave cylinder.:vs_cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
196,000 Miles on OEM clutch? You are doing something good.:vs_karate: But ya might go ahead and see how much a replacement costs. I'm sure this isn't the first time it did it. Clutch kit from NAPA is $270.00 Part# NCF 1104046, Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack. Didn't see a flywheel so you will have to have it turned unless you can find a replacement. Yes turned just like a brake rotor or drum but on a flywheel turner, not a brake lathe as it won't get out the hot spots. If you don't, you run the risk of it shaking on engagement. Now would be a good time to change 1 piece rear main seal as it is right there. Remember to lube it up before installation. And if you see seepage from the slave cylinder, might want to change that also. New part puts more of a load on old slave cylinder.:vs_cool:
Thnaks, Brain. Yup, Im a good clutch drivin guy!! I never slow down using clutch- only brakes, and never jack rabbit starting, and drive e-a-s-y. Total respect for clutches. Right- It has done that before- like about 5-8 years ago. Wanting to get 200,000 miles on it, for fun. Unless it falls apart before.
 

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Thinking of the brake rotor squeal on cool or cold mornings from the wife's car and my summer cruiser, Big Jim's suggestion makes a lot of sense to me. But the first thing that popped into my head was throwout bearing. If it came to replacement, given the mileage, you might as well replace the clutch at the same time, but you might be able to reach in there and feel if it's hanging up someplace. I don't know how that one is rigged up, but another thought is possibly old hydraulic fluid or, if it's on a cable, maybe some breakaway or something like that down the outer casing.
 

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I had 320k miles on the original clutch in my '96 Ranger before it started chattering. (Also, only in reverse.)

In my case, the chatters were because the slave cylinder was slightly leaking onto the clutch. On the Ranger, the slave cylinder is concentric and rides on the input shaft to the tranny. I ended up replacing everything in there while the tranny was out. Slave, clutch kit, bearings, etc.

Not sure how it is on the Sunbird, but figured it might be worth mentioning, also because you said that it leaks fluid.
 
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