[miamicuse]

I have a central AC unit with a 3/4" PVC condensation line that runs to the outside. I usually pour some bleach down every 30 days or so from the cap on the left side. But that only cleans the vertical pipe and downstream.

Last month the line was clogged on the short horizontal pipe, slim buildup in that pipe that required me to take the tee and 90 elbow apart.


I was wondering, is there a better way to clean that horizontal pipe? Should I cut that pipe and insert and TEE and pour bleach down that horizontal pipe instead?


What if I go to the right and remove the float switch and pour bleach down that elbow, will that run to the left side pipe or is that a bad idea?

 

[beenthere]

Its probably time for your coil to be cleaned. And while its being cleaned, that small section of drain line can be cleaned. The slime is coming from the drain pan.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Re - plumb the line with long radius ells and sanitary T's so you can snake it. Or after the plumbing up grade add a valve so you can pig it with a ball pig and air + pressure or - vacuum.


EDIT: EDIT:

 

[miamicuse]

Re - plumb the line with long radius ells and sanitary T's so you can snake it. Or after the plumbing up grade add a valve so you can pig it with a ball pig and air + pressure or - vacuum.

I don't think they make any drain fittings for that size. My condensate line is 3/4". The smallest PVC sanitary tee I think is 1-1/2"...may be tubular is 1-1/4".

 

[miamicuse]

Its probably time for your coil to be cleaned. And while its being cleaned, that small section of drain line can be cleaned. The slime is coming from the drain pan.

When you say clean coil, do you mean those $10 bottom of spray on cleaner?


or do you mean complete disconnect and removal of the coil and acid wash it outside?


I am not sure those spray bottle thing work. I have tried it before laying down on the floor and spraying downside up onto the coil, I do not think the coil look any cleaner after the treatment, the only thing is I end up coughing for a few days after.


The acid wash approach is expensive. Typically the quotes I get is about 1/2 of a new system. Say a brand new AC is $2800 and they would quote me $1500 to acid wash the handler coil. That doesn't even include the compressor coil, and therefore they would also recommend that I just replace the system. In Florida down here most companies don't even service units older than 10 years.

 

[surferdude2]

If you can gain access to the coil drain pan, you can maybe get by without having to remove the coil. That's where the slime originates. Clean the pan and if the problem reoccurs soon, clean it again and put a chlorine tablet in it.

 

[beenthere]

When you say clean coil, do you mean those $10 bottom of spray on cleaner?


or do you mean complete disconnect and removal of the coil and acid wash it outside?


I am not sure those spray bottle thing work. I have tried it before laying down on the floor and spraying downside up onto the coil, I do not think the coil look any cleaner after the treatment, the only thing is I end up coughing for a few days after.


The acid wash approach is expensive. Typically the quotes I get is about 1/2 of a new system. Say a brand new AC is $2800 and they would quote me $1500 to acid wash the handler coil. That doesn't even include the compressor coil, and therefore they would also recommend that I just replace the system. In Florida down here most companies don't even service units older than 10 years.

How severe of a cleaning it needs, depends on how dirty it is.


Can you gain access to the bottom of the coil to see how dirty it is, or isn't.

 

[Missouri Bound]

Maybe it's just not in the picture but I don't see a trap anywhere in the line.
A working trap will keep the line cleaner.
If I was you I would install a proper trap on the left drain. They actually have a small cap that you remove to clean the trap...which is clear.
A working trap is necessary to keep the air handler from sucking air.
The device on the right is a switch that will shut down the unit if the drain pan overflows. A properly operating system generally doesn't need that.

 

[miamicuse]

Maybe it's just not in the picture but I don't see a trap anywhere in the line.
A working trap will keep the line cleaner.
If I was you I would install a proper trap on the left drain. They actually have a small cap that you remove to clean the trap...which is clear.
A working trap is necessary to keep the air handler from sucking air.
The device on the right is a switch that will shut down the unit if the drain pan overflows. A properly operating system generally doesn't need that.

The float switch is part of the system and is now required by code where I am, I am told it has to be installed in order to prevent the system from continuing to work in the event it freezes or water fills the condensate line.


The is a trap, but it's on the outside. The 3/4" PVC condensate line runs another 5' to reach the outside then a trap is installed on the outside. We have some units with traps inside and some outside. I think most newer installs I have seen, puts the trap on the outside, they do not glue the trap on so it's easy to just remove it to clean it outside with a garden hose.

 

[steves7839]

What if I go to the right and remove the float switch and pour bleach down that elbow, will that run to the left side pipe or is that a bad idea?

Nothing wrong with doing that if the float switch is free to remove. Both legs of the drain meet at the drain pan.

To assess the condition of the coil and pan, remove the panel on the right side of the evaporator cabinet. There may be an additional metal cover on the side of the A coil.

A dusty coil indicates air leakage on the return side duct work at or after the air filter.