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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've already read a few older threads here, but none seemed to address my issues exactly.

I am gut-renovating my house, including the replacement/rerouting of every wire, pipe, tube, vent, and drain. I am trying to decide on the gas piping material I will use. My personal preference is to overengineer everything and use the most robust solution down to every fastener and bead of caulking. Based on research so far, I am leaning toward CSST, brass, and copper (in descending order). FYI, black iron is not allowed by my AHJ, but copper and galvanized are.

Based on my research, the only issue with CSST is the need for bonding and lightning arrestors, which will not be a problem as I can easily incorporate it into my concurrent total rewire.

Question 1: Can I get some advice on selecting a piping material that only takes into account the material quality and performance, and does not worry about cost or difficulty of installation?

The gas company will be relocating the service line and upsizing the meter. They refuse to tell me what the largest meter they can furnish is. They want a list of appliances and their BTU demand. I prefer to have an oversized meter because I will build an addition in a couple of years, and I don't want to have to get the meter replaced again.

Question 2: Unless I can find an insider at the gas company, can I get some tips on how to game my demand calculation in order to get the bigger meter?
 

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Strange that an AHJ would not allow black iron, I would consider it superior to CSST or copper for gas applications. Brass pipe/fittings (my local plumbing supply does not carry it) would be hard to find and $$$$$.

Give the gas company all your requirements including the future addition.

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No black pipe? Hmmm? If you're sure on that. I'd use csst.

For the meter; just list everything under the sun on the gas company form. There's really only two meter sizes for a house, at least in my area. I always try to get the big one.

Put down gas everything, range, furnace, dryer, grill, fireplace. The guarantee to get the big meter is to tell them you're also installing a 199,000 btu on demand water heater. They'll never check if you do or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update:

I think I'm going to plumb the whole place with TracPipe CounterStrike (CSST). It seems quite easy to work with, and I found out that the local inspectors are familiar with it. I'd appreciate any thoughts on this product if you have used it before.
 

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To my knowledge there has never been a recall or class action law suite because of seamless black pipe for gas supply. But with all the fast expensive quick coupling methods of many products there are lurking attorneys galore just waiting for an opportunity.
 

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Update:

I think I'm going to plumb the whole place with TracPipe CounterStrike (CSST). It seems quite easy to work with, and I found out that the local inspectors are familiar with it. I'd appreciate any thoughts on this product if you have used it before.
Be sure that you follow the install manual word for word. This includes hangers/supports and nail plates that are properly sized.

Keep the pressure test on for the entire time of your remodel- right up to equipment hook up time.
I've seen siding installers shoot nails and electricians drill holes in that ....stuff.
Personally, I would go iron pipe. I'm old school :vs_cool:
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Be sure that you follow the install manual word for word. This includes hangers/supports and nail plates that are properly sized.

Keep the pressure test on for the entire time of your remodel- right up to equipment hook up time.
I've seen siding installers shoot nails and electricians drill holes in that ....stuff.
Personally, I would go iron pipe. I'm old school :vs_cool:
You got me thinking...
Another project on my list is to plumb my workshop with compressed air lines. I wonder if the Tracpipe would work for that (I'll look up their pressure ratings when I have time). This would offer the benefit of having spare Tracpipe on hand, but not taking up storage space, that I could cannibalize later for adding on or replacing gas lines. I'll probably have to order this stuff in a larger quantity than I need anyway. If it's feasible to do this, I'll make sure to do it after I get the final inspection on the gas lines. I'm sure the code inspector would freak out seeing that yellow pipe running all over my shop!
 

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Im a plumber 35 yrs. Track pipe has its place but blk pipe would be preferred..

If doing track pipe your best to run from meter to manifold, then home run to all appliances.

As far as meter size dont worry about it.
( Im sure there is a permit involved)

You have to do the proper gas calculation to size the gas pipe correctly. I usually use the longest length method.

Sizing for a tankless is a good idea even though you may put a regular HWH in its place.

Having a bbQ on the line or provisions help also.

And IMO while you have the house open, run a gas provision for a whole house generator. ( This is always a separate line off the meter)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Im a plumber 35 yrs. Track pipe has its place but blk pipe would be preferred..

If doing track pipe your best to run from meter to manifold, then home run to all appliances.

As far as meter size dont worry about it.
( Im sure there is a permit involved)

You have to do the proper gas calculation to size the gas pipe correctly. I usually use the longest length method.

Sizing for a tankless is a good idea even though you may put a regular HWH in its place.

Having a bbQ on the line or provisions help also.

And IMO while you have the house open, run a gas provision for a whole house generator. ( This is always a separate line off the meter)
Great minds think alike. I already have all of those planned, plus a couple more. Valved manifold just on the other side of the wall from the meter (with a couple extra ports for future use), tankless condensing HWH, clothes dryer, cooktop, indoor charbroiler (if not integrated with cooktop), oven, outdoor grill, generator, and in my workshop a lab-style Bunsen burner gas supply valve.

That last one I may plumb after the final inspection because I can't find any specs in the code for how this should be done and I don't think the residential inspectors will be very supportive if I ask them. The likely setup for that will be integrated inside a fume hood unit that I can get surplus from a lab, so there will be proper ventilation and isolation. But it's probably better to ask forgiveness than to ask permission on this one.
 
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