[mclld]

I have an extra bathroom that the shower is not being used. The hot water valve broke and was stuck on so I had to remove the whole thing and cap the water lines. I had someone tell me they would fix it for $500 but I would like to attempt it myself. I would guess I need a new shower insert, how much in parts do you think this would cost? I have access to the water lines in a closet behind the tub. Any tips/suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[jmon]

Shouldn't be too much to fix. 500 dollars sounds very reasonable to have someone fix it to me. Does that include parts, material, and labor? Just make sure it's not some hack job.

If you have the skills and knowledge to diy; Looks like your standard tileboard from the big box stores. You may have to replace all the tileboard if you can't get it to match. No biggy. You would probably only need 2 or 3 pieces, about 20 -30 dollars a sheet.

You have access to the water lines so plumbing will be easy. You need a new shower valve and faucet. Remove and replace all that old caulk and redo it right this time, it will look so much better. Depending on your make and brand of shower/tub faucet, I'd guess about, 250-300 dollars in parts and material. Just my opinion.

Please wait for the plumbers to respond. They do these kind of things everyday. Thanks.

 

[mclld]

I removed the tileboard and this is what was behind it

 

[joecaption]

There's nothing cheap about fixing this one.
This has been an ongoing problem for a whole that was allowed to go on far to long.
Time for a total gut and redo.

 

[mclld]

I would really like to attempt this myslef and this is not a main bathroom so I can take my time. What all would I need to do?

 

[joed]

Two options.
1. A whole tub liner that seals down to the tub.
2. The better option would be to remove walls and install concrete board, or other water proof board like shluter Kerdi or wedi, Then apply new tiles.

 

[ChiTownPro]

Replacing the tile board would be a mistake. That stuff is for looks not wet areas. Stick it on the wall behind the toilet (only if you hate yourself) but never in a wet area.

You need to demo down to studs.

Replace valve.

Install Durock, Kerdi Board, Denshield and waterproof accordingly.

Tile

Grout with Mapei Flexcolor.

If someone offered to "fix" for $500, loose their number. They know less about it than you do.

 

[Seattle2k]

Replacing the tile board would be a mistake. That stuff is for looks not wet areas. Stick it on the wall behind the toilet (only if you hate yourself) but never in a wet area.

You need to demo down to studs.

Replace valve.

Install Durock, Kerdi Board, Denshield and waterproof accordingly.

Tile

Grout with Mapei Flexcolor.

If someone offered to "fix" for $500, loose their number. They know less about it than you do.

If the plumber offered to fix the plumbing for $500, I don't see what's wrong with that.... If the plumber offered to fix the plumbing and do a full reno, then yes,,,,i'd question that, but that's obviously not what the OP said.

 

[ChiTownPro]

If the plumber offered to fix the plumbing for $500, I don't see what's wrong with that.... If the plumber offered to fix the plumbing and do a full reno, then yes,,,,i'd question that, but that's obviously not what the OP said.

What plumber? I don't assume or add detail to what has been said.

Read the op. No mention of a plumber or a bid/quote. OP stated "someone" "offered" to fix it for $500. That's not the same as a plumber quoted me $500.

Second, do you understand what is involved in this fix? Could you fix it? If not, then having an opinion on the fix, the cost of the fix and what needs to be done is pointless.

The OP stated that he figured her needed to but a new insert right after saying someone offered to fix it. I reasoned that that was included in the "fix" as its the first thing he listed after that statement. So I would have to conclude the $500 was to fix the valve and resolve the issues with the surround.

 

[wrangler]

What exactly do you WANT to do? Replace the entire unit? You mentioned shower insert. Are you wanting to take out the tub and convert to shower only? All of it can be diy but there are many options as to how it can be done. How much help do you have? if none, that's ok too, just changes procedure a bit ( as in, if no help, it would be easier for you to bust the old cast iron tub with a sledge hammer rather than try to take it out whole, especially if it is not on the main floor). Some people love cast iron tubs, some hate them. It's your bath, so your choice. Of course, budget has a bearing on your decision, but if you DIY you can take your time and save money. And you definitely came to the right place to get advice since after all, this is a DIY Chatroom.

 

[mclld]

I Would like to keep the tub and just get a functional shower again, so it seems going by what I have read I need to tear down to the studs which is fine. I have never done anything like this but would like to try.

 

[Bret86844]

I Would like to keep the tub and just get a functional shower again, so it seems going by what I have read I need to tear down to the studs which is fine. I have never done anything like this but would like to try.

With time, patience, google, and youtube, you can definitely do this. ChiTownPro listed the basic steps. Also you will have a MUCH better end product this way.

 

[mclld]

I am not sure about where the transition from the tiles in the rest of the bathroom and the shower tiles meet though, I am guessing I can put some kind of divider in place

 

[FrodoOne]

I have an extra bathroom that the shower is not being used. The hot water valve broke and was stuck on so I had to remove the whole thing and cap the water lines. I had someone tell me they would fix it for $500 but I would like to attempt it myself. I would guess I need a new shower insert, how much in parts do you think this would cost? I have access to the water lines in a closet behind the tub. Any tips/suggestions would be much appreciated.

While you have referred to a "shower", the photo shows only where the taps/faucets and a "spout" for the BATH previously existed. (i. e. There is no indication of a previously existing SHOWER.)

Replacing the tile board would be a mistake.

You need to demo down to studs.

Replace valve.

Install Durock, Kerdi Board, Denshield and waterproof accordingly.

Tile

Grout with Mapei Flexcolor.

However, to install a shower you need to do much more than "Replace valve"
At least you need to install either a "Riser Bath and Shower Assembly" like this one https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b...x800/04ea789b-140d-44b9-8e63-98d5f1368866.jpg
or a Bath/Shower diverter valve/tap/faucet.

However, there are many other devices that you could use, which may include mixer valves and hand-held/adjustable showers.
Check "riser bath and shower" for images - While most of these show external plumbing, such plumbing can be placed within the wall(s) if you wish.
There is another consideration in that it is a good idea NOT to have the shower "Head" above the faucets that control it, but to place it to the side (for which you do not have room) or on the wall to the right. (Of course, this is NOT the cheapest option.)

You will also need to install a shower-screen (or, at least, a shower curtain.)

I am not sure about where the transition from the tiles in the rest of the bathroom and the shower tiles meet though, I am guessing I can put some kind of divider in place

This suggests that you intend to re-tile only one wall - which raises questions about "waterproofing" the vertical junction between that wall and the others.
However. If you cannot now purchase matching tiles, just purchase tiles of the same size of a corresponding or contrasting colour and make the repaired wall a "feature wall".

Of course, if you do move the shower head onto the side wall, it will be necessary to repair/re-tile that wall also.

The existing silicone at the wall junctions and along the edge of the bath is poorly done. The wall silicone will be removed when you re-sheet and that along the bath should be cut-out and replaced. However, if you cannot remove every trace (and there are potent chemicals to do this), new silicone will not stick to the old. You could use a white or coloured acrylic sealer instead.

 

[costgeek]

Thanks for clarifying the what the $500 was for. Way too little for a complete fix, pretty standard for fixing the plumbing. You should be able to get all the plumbing tools/supplies for under $150.

Supplies:
1/2" inside+outside diameter fitting brush
1/2" pipe cutter
Plumbing torch
Solder wire
Flux
Flux brush
Eye protection
1/2" copper pipe (5' should do)
1/2" elbow fittings as needed
1/2" straight fittings as needed
1/2" 90 degree drop ear elbow
1/2" stop valves (optional but recommended; you can also buy a shower valve with built-in stops). Since you need to replace the liner, you can plumb whatever type of shower valve you want.
Shower valve (depends on shower trim selected...some trim comes with correct valve)

Watch a bunch of videos on how to sweat pipe. It's not hard. Always dry fit first.

As recommended, tear that stuff out to the studs. Consider replacing that tub with something less blue while you're at it. It's difficult to tell you exactly what to do, but you're going to build something that looks like what you see in the pic.

Shut off the water main.

If you're installing shutoff valves, connect them on the supply lines before the valve. Test the shutoff valves before proceeding to the next steps. If they work, you can leave them closed and turn the water main back on. Feel free to drink a beer and procrastinate for a week...you've earned it.

Assemble the rest of the system as required for your situation. Read
and carefully follow the shower valve instructions. This will include removing anything with "meltable" parts from the valve housing before sweating. Once everything is soldered, assemble the valve, turn it to the off position and test it. If it works, congrats...you just roughed in your shower and saved hundreds of dollars!

 

[mclld]

There was a shower, the pipe runs up the wall, you just cant see it in this pic. I am going to tear all the walls in the shower down to the studs and start fresh

 

[Olcrazy1]

If this was mine and I was not in a hurry to get it running I would rip it all out to the studs. Update the lines and valves, replaces with cement board, seal with red guard and tile, grout and seal. Do it yourself the right way and you are probably looking at $500 and 15-20 hours of work if you know what you are doing.

 

[Arlo]

Do it right and rip out that bathtub. The blue bath tub is going to bite you when it's time to sell the place.

 

[mclld]

I have no plans on selling, it is just about payed off

 

[SPS-1]

Go ahead, you can do it. Steps just as ChiTownPro and Olcrazy1 stated. Don't use that hoardbord tile-board -- no good for a wet area. I am just a DIYer like you and did a similar (actually much worse shape) bathroom for a friend last summer. If you go to YouTube, you will find lots of videos of the various steps. But be careful --- just because somebody does something on an internet video does not mean its being done the right way. You asked about how to terminate the tile --- yes google "schluter edging strip". The aluminum (or stainless steel) looks, much better than the plastic. Note that height of edging strip has to match height of the tile. Seems to be an old house -- just be warned that walls wont be square, wont be flat, and every time you rip something out, you will look behind it and say "oh my g&$, I wasn't expecting that". At least get the walls flat before putting up the cement board.