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Changed Outlets, now no power

5900 Views 24 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  roughneck
I was changing outlets and switches in our two office rooms, both had power and are on the same breaker. After completing the changes, one of the rooms does not have power. I have checked all the outlets and switches for loose wires and did not find any. No GFI's.

Any tips on tracking the problem down?

Thank you in advance.

DP
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I was changing outlets and switches in our two office rooms, both had power and are on the same breaker. After completing the changes, one of the rooms does not have power. I have checked all the outlets and switches for loose wires and did not find any. No GFI's.

Any tips on tracking the problem down?

Thank you in advance.

DP
You carefully changed wire for wire?
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I thought I did. I checked them again and they all seem correct. On my way to purchase a multi-meter. I have changed many outlets and never really had any issues. The only technical part was the switched outlet with the red wire and the need to break the metal tab. The other 4 rooms I have completed are working fine! Just this one room.
I thought I did. I checked them again and they all seem correct. On my way to purchase a multi-meter. I have changed many outlets and never really had any issues. The only technical part was the switched outlet with the red wire and the need to break the metal tab. The other 4 rooms I have completed are working fine! Just this one room.
You only broke the hot tab right
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Yes, the one side with the red and black wire.
Turn your switch(es) on, does power return to the receptacles?

Cheers
John
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No, I have tried the switch, replaced the switch, bypassed the switch. I'm thinking I need to find where the power comes into the room and trace it backwards. Maybe one of the pig tails come loose? I checked the three outlets and one switch in the other room and everything seems fine. All the power works and the switch works properly.
I was convinced that you broke the wrong tab or both tabs on the receptacle or you connected a load with a feed wire in one of the switches; see those things a lot.

What is your voltage between hot and neutral and hot and ground on the "dead" receptacles?

Cheers
John
Old wiring in the wall?

True story, just yesterday I had a wire break off at the wire nut, probs happened when I pushed the light switch back into the box after cleaning and painting. 40 year old copper...
Not exactly the same...but I was installing baseboard heating on a 20A MWBC... late afternoon....with no lights available in a back bedroom.... low on the floor behind a desk.

Made up a bad wirenut in that box that didn't show until downstream was dead.

Everything was tight in that wirenut....except one wire.
Another common problem when changing switches is "assuming that position means anything at all" in 3/4-way switches and twin switches. They don't. The switch makers rearrange the screw positions so they are different on every switch. You have to pay attention to screw colors/functions.
Another common problem when changing switches is "assuming that position means anything at all" in 3/4-way switches and twin switches. They don't. The switch makers rearrange the screw positions so they are different on every switch. You have to pay attention to screw colors/functions.
This is particularly true on 4-ways... I always test a 4-way before it is installed to get the correct connections.

Cheers
John
I have gotten around to buying a real multimeter and outlet tester. The outlet tester says the ground and hot are reversed?!?!? I looked everywhere and I dont see that happening. I hope to get back into it tomorrow.
Many outlet testers when reading hot/ground reversed is actually an open neutral.
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What is your voltage between hot and neutral and hot and ground on the "dead" receptacles?
Cheers
John
I am getting 119v when I use the multimeter touching the ground and the black wire. Seems I have an issue somewhere with one of the white wires. I looked at everything I have messed with and nothing is jumping out at me.
I am getting 119v when I use the multimeter touching the ground and the black wire. Seems I have an issue somewhere with one of the white wires. I looked at everything I have messed with and nothing is jumping out at me.
So as suggested, you have an open neutral. If it worked before, then it is something you did. Broken / loose wire at a receptacle is the most common.

Revisit all the connection that you touched, even if you did not take it apart, there may be an existing connection that is poor and by moving it you created a fault condition.

Cheers
John
Finally!!!

Somewhere the neutral was lost.... I didn't manage to find it, so by connecting the ground to the white terminal I was able get the room back online.

This seems a bit unorthodox to me. Have you ever seen this done?
Finally!!!



Somewhere the neutral was lost.... I didn't manage to find it, so by connecting the ground to the white terminal I was able get the room back online.



This seems a bit unorthodox to me. Have you ever seen this done?
Danger is what you have created. The ground wire is not allowed to carry the neutral current. You will liven the metal parts of your 3 wire appliances. Disconnect what you have done and find your lost neutral.

Sent from my RCT6A03W13E using Tapatalk
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