[noquacks]

People,

When snapping a chalk line as a guide to install base cabinets, do you start at the top of a cabinet, measure the height, mark, and then use a level to align a chalk line?

Then, what if you have a "bump" in the floor/slab which could elevate an adjacent cabinet? Cant shim that one, right? How do they do it?

Thanks

 

[princelake]

i start with my base corner cabinet.
get it perfectly level and screwed in place
then i run a level line off of that in either direct.
i pencil it not snap it.

 

[jaydevries]

i use a laser now but i used to use a level check floor to find the highest point if floor is not level and then draw a line at that height on wall

 

[joecaption]

You have to find the highest point first as suggested.
Cabinets almost always have to be shimmed to make up for the lower areas.
If you just started in the corner as suggest and the floor sloped up from there then there's no way to make up for it.
Since I bought my self leveling lazer lever it's made a ton of jobs so much easer.
Once you do find that high spot and marked it you can use the longest level you have to mark the wall.
Then you can start installing from an inside corner.

 

[sixeightten]

You have to find the highest point first as suggested.
Cabinets almost always have to be shimmed to make up for the lower areas.
If you just started in the corner as suggest and the floor sloped up from there then there's no way to make up for it.
Since I bought my self leveling lazer lever it's made a ton of jobs so much easer.
Once you do find that high spot and marked it you can use the longest level you have to mark the wall.
Then you can start installing from an inside corner.

Why not just continue using the laser to mark the wall instead of the level?

 

[Davejss]

I find that lasers are ok for rough lay outs, but the beams are too large for accurate finish work.
I use my six foot level on the floor, find the highest spot, mark the wall and snap from there. I use a small diameter finish line. I think Lenox makes it. It's a bit thinner than standard lines. I also use a drafter's mechanical pencil for drawing thin lines. For super thin and accurate marks I use a knife.

 

[joecaption]

Why not just continue using the laser to mark the wall instead of the level?

I do, what's the chance a DIY is going to have a $700.00 lazer level laying around.

 

[oh'mike]

Just a note----if the 'hump' is small----some times modifying the cabinet by cutting off some of the bottom is in order---just a thought----

 

[DannyT]

where you getting your lazers at joe? i got one at HD on clearance for 29.00 a few years ago and it works great.

 

[carpdad]

Starting from the highest point is the norm, but make sure you have 34 1/2" from the finished floor to the bottom of the counter top nosing at the spaces where the under counter appliances will go.

 

[joecaption]

http://www.engineersupply.com/Johns...vel-with-Integral-Vertical-Mount-40-6522.aspx

I need to be able to level long fences, decks, figure out where to start siding on old house that have been added onto and are sagging so the last outside corner comes out even so a $30.00 levels not going to cut it.

 

[noquacks]

Wow, many thanks to all here who contributed!! I learned a bunch! Now, the job wont have any surprises (I hope).

 

[noquacks]

Starting from the highest point is the norm, but make sure you have 34 1/2" from the finished floor to the bottom of the counter top nosing at the spaces where the under counter appliances will go.

Thaks, but not clear on what you mean by " nosing at the spaces........".

under counter appliances? Why does this matter much?

 

[joecaption]

Set to low and there not going to fit.

 

[noquacks]

Getting ready to start- one thing- when hanging upper cabinets (not base cabinets), does one have to hope/depend that there will just happen to be a stud in wall at the right place to screw in screws? Or, do you beforehand, determine where ALL studs are, (typically, every 16"), mark, then you have a better idea where to screw each hanging cabinet?

Also, how many per box? 2 on top . left/right, and 2 low, left right?

Thanks!!

 

[<*(((><]

Depends on the cabinets, if there is a void at the back of the cabinet a great way of installing uppers is to screw a cleat (the same thickness of the cabinet's void) to the studs at the desired height. Then you can screw the cabinets at any place where the cleat lands. This makes it nice to layout the studs behind where the cabinets are and you can mark the walls where it won't show up as the cabinet will hide it.