[yummy mummy]

If I installed my ceramic tiles on a diagonal pattern, would it show less uneveness to the eye?

Since I have never done this before, I don't expect it to look great, so if I can "fool" the eye in some way, I would be good with that.......

Also, I have to slightly slope for drainage.

Thanks, I'm getting there.

(Is that baby here yet kc........:laughing:, I'm in a hurry to finish this before he/she arrives.....:laughing

 

[drtbk4ever]

I don't have an answer for your question, but I am willing to bet it will look just fine and you won't need to be "fooling the eye".

Take photos!!!!

 

[yummy mummy]

Thanks for compliment but I don't know about that......:laughing:

This is the beauty of not knowing what I was getting into, when I said, "how difficult can it be to finish this basement".....

 

[yummy mummy]

Thanks for compliment but I don't know about that......:laughing:

This is the beauty of not knowing what I was getting into, when I said, "how difficult can it be to finish this basement".....

I can't wait to take pictures!

 

[toolbelt Tina]

right back to you

Thanks for compliment but I don't know about that......:laughing:

This is the beauty of not knowing what I was getting into, when I said, "how difficult can it be to finish this basement".....

Bravo! I share your pain and frustration in the enormity of the task. The tv shows make it look easy.

You can use a ledger board on the bottom to guide your tiles to perfect and straight line.

I obsess about the slightest imperfections but then after I realize it is futile as I am the only one who will know. And in the end you see the project in whole and not focused on one particular area.

Cheers to you.
Tina

 

[Bud Cline]

If I installed my ceramic tiles on a diagonal pattern, would it show less uneveness to the eye?

Depends on your viewing perspective but usually yes.

How about a "runninmg bond" to disrupt what the eye sees? Better than run-of-the-mill diagonal maybe.

 

[Willie T]

Here's the main problem with running tile floors on a 45. In anything but a perfectly square, equal sided room, you end up with trying to hide this kind of un-balance. You CAN finally work out a reasonable layout, but it's tough.

 

[yummy mummy]

Thanks Bud. I am so glad to hear that, about the diagonal pattern, because I need all the help I can get.

What is "running bond"? Is it when you change size of tiles, and use different sizes?

By the way, Bud, I have just taken off all the paint on the concrete, (as you told me to) and I found a product called safe strip, that is enviro friendly, and has no odour and has worked fabulously for me.
A LOT, of work, but I am done, all 750 square feet of it.

 

[Willie T]

Tile laid in a running bond. Tile floors tend to lose some of the impressive effect of their "expansiveness" done this way.

 

[yummy mummy]

Thanks Willie.

That pattern is another one that I was considering. I thought it was called brickwork pattern.

I may go with either one.

 

[Bud Cline]

Running Bond/Brickwork Pattern - Toe-May-Toe/Toe-Mah-Toe

Here's the main problem with running tile floors on a 45. In anything but a perfectly square, equal sided room, you end up with trying to hide this kind of un-balance. You CAN finally work out a reasonable layout, but it's tough.

I'm going to disagree with that conclusion. When using a diagonal layout this hides a muriad of errors. The problem is each edge tile must be cut slightly different than the others and THAT is a PITA.

The straight lay patterns will show crooked walls a whole lot quicker than a diagonal pattern. With diagonal pattern you'll never notice the errors.
With straight lay you'll have a straight wall to compare the grout lines to. With diagonal you will not.

 

[yummy mummy]

Bud, my favourite tile guy......:wink:, tell me which one I should go with, and I will listen. :yes:

 

[Bud Cline]

You could do a diagonal running bond and really confuse the eye.:yes:

Another plus for a diagonal lay is that most professional decorators will tell you it expands one's perception of a room, makes it look larger. I suppose that-too is argueable.

Let's go back for a minute! When you said in your first post:

If I installed my ceramic tiles on a diagonal pattern, would it show less uneveness to the eye?

Where you concerned about the room being out-of-square or where you referring to tile-lippage?

 

[yummy mummy]

I am not concerned about the room being square.

I am concerned about tile lippage. My brother in law just has his tiles installed by a professional and he has lippage. I figure, if the pro has lippage, I am going to have major lippage. (like Angelina Jolies lippage.....lol)

 

[Bud Cline]

The flatter the substrate the better of course. The larger the tile the flatter the substrate needs to be.

So......what's the substrate like?

 

[yummy mummy]

The substrate is very strong, no movement, unpainted concrete, but there are two drainage holes, that slope slightly for water drainage.

I do realize that if I put in a tile that is smaller I can get less lippage, but I really don't like the look of the small tiles.

The smallest is 12 inches that I have seen that I like.

I could probably do a great job with 1 inch mosaics........lol

How about this thought; if I would put extra thinset in areas where I would have to in order to get less lippage?

Also, I have been hearing the term back butter? What exactly is that, and when is it used?

Thanks a lot darling you are very sweet to help me.

 

[Bud Cline]

How about this thought; if I would put extra thinset in areas where I would have to in order to get less lippage?

Ya-know.....
THAT is a concept that gets bandied around from time to time. The truth is, it typically doesn't work like that. It wouldn't change anything when addressing the slope(s). Using thinset in abundance can cause purging between the tiles and may be difficult to clean up. Thinset is notorious for shrinking as it cures and using thinset in abundance can cause perfectly-set tiles to move with the shrinking process.

How about using a smaller tile in the plan in the areas of the slopes and make a design of/in those areas?

I don't know how much slope you are dealing with but FYI a typical shower floor should slope about 1/4" per foot of run. In this case the tile needs to be around 2"-3" to be able to follow those slopes. I know we aren't talking about a shower floor but the issues are the same.

Also, I have been hearing the term back butter? What exactly is that, and when is it used?

"Back buttering" is used in such a case where the substrate isn't perfectly 'plane' and the tiles are large. The process is to spread thinset on the substrate and comb it with the notched trowel. Always comb in one direction. THEN the backs of the tiles are 100% 'skim-coated' with thinset using the flat side of the trowel. This insures good contact on both surfaces. In some cases the back buttering of the tile is also combed the same as the substrate. When placing the tiles it is necessary to plop the tiles (that's a professional term - "plop") and then sorta squiggle the tiles in the thinset to seat them where you want them. (Squiggle - is another high-tech term):wink: Move the tiles to their final resting place. If purging occurs from using so much thinset, now is the time to clean/remove the purging. You should always have a bucket of water and a sponge at-the-ready for just such reasons anyway.

SIDEBAR: In the past and in just such a situation I have been known to use what is termed a "rubble" approach to this issue of swailes and sloping floor drains. The floor tiles can be set in accordance with the layout. When it comes time to put tile around a sloping floor drain the tiles can be broken, hence the term "rubble". The broken pieces are installed in place of a tile (or several tiles) and the broken pieces will follow the contour of the slope. This way you are using the same tile, you are conforming to the slope, you have created a nice design, you have eliminated any possibility for lippage, and you have resolved a PITA issue.
WARNING: Broken tiles can have razor-sharp edges so grouting the tiles to the tile surface is mandatory. In some cases sharp edges may need to be filed.

So anyway...just some ideas. How much floor drain slope are you dealing with?

 

[yummy mummy]

Bud, I thank you very much for your time and your great explanation and advice. It is much appreciated.

Your idea of the broken tiles and creating a design sounds really good.
I just have to come up with some design. Thanks for warning about the sharp edges.

The slope that I am dealing with is about a 1 1/2 inch slope in a radius of 8 to 9 feet.


That is the largest one. The other is approx. 1/2 inch slope in a radius of
4 feet.

Purging between the tiles? Is this when the thin set squeezes out between the tiles?

Also, when I put my tile spacers in, when do I remove them? If I wait too long will they not dry up in the thin set?

Also, how long can I have the thin set in my bucket before it starts to dry? I think I will be pretty slow at this, and I won't be mixing too much.

Bud, I remember way back there was a site where you showed your amazing work, but I can't seem to find it. Do you still have that?
I would love to take a look.

Ok, I'll stop with the questions........

 

[Bud Cline]

Purging between the tiles? Is this when the thin set squeezes out between the tiles?

Also, when I put my tile spacers in, when do I remove them? If I wait too long will they not dry up in the thin set?

If you layout a grid with a chalk line you won't need spacers. Spacers can get you into trouble. Any deformity in a tile will be exaggerated when using spacers. The oh-oh's get pushed around because the tiles won't be perfect and the spacers will.

To answer your question...use the spacers to keep yourself honest but don't trust them 100%. Once the tile has had a few minutes to seize-in-place the spacers can be removed. You can leave them in until you are ready to grout if you like. Use spacers that stick above the tile and that you can get a grasp on when the time comes.

Also, how long can I have the thin set in my bucket before it starts to dry? I think I will be pretty slow at this,

"Pot-life" of most thinsets is very user friendly. An hour or more shouldn't be a problem.

I won't be mixing too much.

That would be my suggestion.

Bud, I remember way back there was a site where you showed your amazing work, but I can't seem to find it. Do you still have that?
I would love to take a look.

To tell you the truth I have a few photos scattered around but I don't remember where they are either. When it comes to taking pictures I have been what one might say is "digitally Challenged" when it comes to getting those photos posted on websites. The basics seem to escape me. I don't take that many photos anymore anyway.

Years ago I kept up a scrapbook to use to sell my wares but that isn't necessary anymore, I can take potential customers to the crime scenes to see the creations first hand.

Ok, I'll stop with the questions........

Not a problem, glad to help.
I just went searching for some photos and once again I find myself......
well let's just say I'm not sure how to do it still.

 

[drtbk4ever]

Wow Bud, great input. I am learning tons and I am not even doing any tiling.

I love this, especially with the maple leaf in the center.