Since I'm not an expert, take what I say with a grain of salt, but here are my two cents.
There are lots of resources on the internet for how to lay ceramic tile. One thing you probably shouldn't do, unless you like cracked tile and joints and possibly other issues, is lay any kind of tile on a subfloor. You need an underlayment of some kind, like Ditra's or a cement based backerboard. You can use plywood as well if you want, but you'll need to put more on top of the subfloor and make sure to use the rougher side facing up.
It says you're a home improvement company.... are you sure you're the best person to be doing tile work if you have to ask this question?
Hey thanks for your reply i already have years of experience installing ceramic floor have pics on my flooring site http://www.anyseasonfirst.com to prove it. What im trying to do i guess is see different methods others or doing reguardless of my years of experience in this field and others im never to proud to ask question and see how others or doing it but thanks for your response.
I like to think that any professional out there isn't a "one-trick pony" and only does XXXX one way...because there so many variable nowadays that it is impossible for solution to meet all needs. Now if you ask what methods are out there recognized by professionals for tiling say ceramic tile onto a plywood subfloor - some would say, as pointed out, that tiles aren't put onto subfloors but they're put onto 'underlayments', but that's just a minor syntax question.
But once you have established that the floor is suitable for tiling, then one method would be to put down a plywood underlayment, then thinset; or put down a cbu or a cleavage (uncoupling) membrane, then thinset on that; or put down a mortar bed.
Now each of these methods has particularities specific to each method, but those in a nutshell are the methods I can think of, as possibilities.
I think what R&D Tile is trying to say is that some have preferences, based on what works for people who do this for a living, and whose reputation is based on the quality of the work they do, and who have found that some methods give better results than others. So perhaps they are a gamble but on the other hand may be specified in certain circumstances.
My answer was based on what I am aware of, but I admit to being sufficiently unsure of myself that I went back and checked what the standards say about tiling over plywood and found that the TTMAC had methods published on-line that were easy to refer to. I didn't go further than that but I imagine other tiling assocations are more or less in line with that. Look for TTMAC method #313F Detail A...the one I saw went back to 2007.
I admit never having used that method )A) but plently of people hereabouts ask about it, seeing as not everyone knows about membranes and/or cbus...so I don't know what results it would give. Perhaps, like Behr paints, it may be suitable for the occasional DIYer use but not what most professioanls would use...
But the overriding point is that each method has conveniences and drawbacks and therefore will not be suitable everywhere nor to everyone. Each case will dictate which of the established methods are applicable in that case only. :whistling2:
we tackle LOTSA stuff that's not our specialty which's why my bride now wants to replace the hallway tile w/wood :laughing: however, my work got us thru a yr of entertaining after a kitchen & not ONE guest complain'd all year :thumbup:
Step 1 Stabilize the floor. We are talking no motion. Big screws to put ply to framing tightly, If it still gives add a layer of 3/4 ply over the top and screw it every 6 inches with 1.5 inch screws or increase bracing from under the floor. NO MOTION is allowed
Step 2 trowel a layer of thinset with a notched trowel 1/4 inch I like to have the mud thinner for this. It should stand when you trowel it but be soft. The goal of this layer is to flow into all cavities and cure solid when the next layer is attached.
Step 3 1/4 inch backer board ( I'd have cut this out to fit my space before I did step 2) follow manufactures directions on screw pattern, but don't take too long to screw this on. The mud needs to flow into all cavities between these two layers.
Step 4 mesh tape on all seams, Mud the joint smooth
Let it dry overnight and you are golden the next day.
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