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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Live in NY where experience temps from 30 to 90 degress. Completely renovating/gutting a short sale house that we will live in. Right now it has hot water baseboards. Would central A/C be the best option? If so what should we look for when buying? What's the most reliable brand? Thank you.
 

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With conventional cooling, you’ll have to install ductwork. You’ll not have to do that if your ok with wall mount indoor heads.
Or you could do low static ducted minis and have small amounts of duct to install.
How good of shape is the hydronic system for in? What fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With conventional cooling, you’ll have to install ductwork. You’ll not have to do that if your ok with wall mount indoor heads.
Or you could do low static ducted minis and have small amounts of duct to install.
How good of shape is the hydronic system for in? What fuel?
Hydronic is in fair conditons. Gas. Thank you!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
With conventional cooling, you’ll have to install ductwork. You’ll not have to do that if your ok with wall mount indoor heads.
Or you could do low static ducted minis and have small amounts of duct to install.
How good of shape is the hydronic system for in? What fuel?
Wall mount heads are a little bit of an eyesore.
 

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We did several ducted systems in NY in houses with baseboard heat. If you are gutting it out, it is a great opportunity to put in ducts. I like the comfort of baseboard heat, but I also like the fast response of hot air systems. I hate looking at baseboard units and the fin tubes get filthy. If it were mine and I was planning to live there, I would get rid of the current system, put in ducts, and then a heating and cooling system using the ducts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We did several ducted systems in NY in houses with baseboard heat. If you are gutting it out, it is a great opportunity to put in ducts. I like the comfort of baseboard heat, but I also like the fast response of hot air systems. I hate looking at baseboard units and the fin tubes get filthy. If it were mine and I was planning to live there, I would get rid of the current system, put in ducts, and then a heating and cooling system using the ducts.
you can have the best of both worlds - rads to maintain and hydro-air for fast warmups off one boiler.
thanks a lot. I'd assume putting in ducts is not a DIY project? just designing where the duct openings should be placed is prob something a professional has to do.
 

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You have to learn a lot of theory to design your own duct system including load calculation, getting required cfm, total equivalent length and more.

Sheet metal work itself is very difficult for the novice - I'm horrible with it. Things don't go together in the real world as they do on paper/in your mind.

It takes real skill to cut it well, etc too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You have to learn a lot of theory to design your own duct system including load calculation, getting required cfm, total equivalent length and more.

Sheet metal work itself is very difficult for the novice - I'm horrible with it. Things don't go together in the real world as they do on paper/in your mind.

It takes real skill to cut it well, etc too.
makes sense
 

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You have to learn a lot of theory to design your own duct system including load calculation, getting required cfm, total equivalent length and more.

Sheet metal work itself is very difficult for the novice - I'm horrible with it. Things don't go together in the real world as they do on paper/in your mind.

It takes real skill to cut it well, etc too.
Agreed. I just want to add that, even if you have a pro do all the load calculations, the balance might not be perfect anyway. It's not unheard-of to have to tinker with the dampers on the grills anyway.

My point is, it can be within the grasp of an advanced DIY'er, like someone willing to take on a complete gut-and-renovate project. As with every aspect of the job, bringing in a pro is of course the ideal.

But this isn't a "hire a pro" forum. It's a DIY forum.

I have both hydronic baseboards and a ducted cooling system. The air was an add-on, while I had a couple of walls open. It is by no means ideal. Despite all the compromises made due to the inability to route the ducts properly, it works. Some rooms cool a bit faster than others, and keeping doors open helps. But in summer, it's wonderful. Far better than window air conditioners and less unsightly than wall-mounted mini-splits.
 

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Agreed. I just want to add that, even if you have a pro do all the load calculations, the balance might not be perfect anyway. It's not unheard-of to have to tinker with the dampers on the grills anyway.
Duct systems are not self balancing even when designed right.

But if some duct runs are undersized, adjusting dampers usually won't cut it.
 
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