DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

cement truck over sewer line

19567 Views 25 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Fix'n it
I'm looking at pouring a slab in my backyard. I recently dug in a 4" schedule 40 sewer line that connects to the cast iron main - also in the backyard. It connects at about 4 feet underground and the run of the sewer line gradually rises from that 4 feet to about 18".

My question is whether it is safe to drive a cement truck over this connection and new sewer run. The cement truck would drive over the Ell connection to the cast iron main. It's 4 feet underground and we backfilled and tamped as best we could, but there is still inevitable settling that will take place. The truck would also drive over some of the 4" pipe at a place where it is about 24"-30" deep.

Do you think this is OK? The concrete guys do, but they're also looking for the easiest way to get the job done.

Thanks for the advice.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
If your pipe was properly bedded, backfilled, and compacted you should be OK.
You could put down planks over the pipe to distribute the trucks weight.
IMO I wouldn't risk it.. It may take a little longer but, There are other means ( machinery) to get the concrete to the area
They do not look for the easiest way, he is just giving his opinion as we do here. 2-3' is not very deep. You do not know the soil conditions or compaction. I would not chance it. Power wheel barrows are great for this work
Compaction and soil conditions are everything. I crushed a 10 foot section of Schd 40 at a 4 ft depth where the ground was a little soft. I go with the person reccomending the planks for weight distribution.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I go with the person reccomending the planks for weight distribution.
Ayuh,... A few sheets of 3/4" plywood would go along ways,... Cheap Insurance....
  • Like
Reactions: 1
width

How wide was the trench?
About 12", but at the point where the connection was made it was a 3' x 4' foot hole about 5 feet deep.
wood

Ayuh,... A few sheets of 3/4" plywood would go along ways,... Cheap Insurance....
Do you think that that would hold a fully loaded cement truck? I was thinking 2x10s...
I too was thinking 2x material. I would NOT let the truck drive over the connection hole, just lay the planks perpendicular to the trench.

This is my opinion only, ultimately it is your decision.
2x planks will snap like a toothpick to even a half full cement truck. Better find some bridge plank material. 'Here' that would entail finding where the county crew took out an old bridge lately and reclaiming a bunch of old used stuff. A double layer would not be too much,,and it better be on hard level surface,no holes or voids under neath. recently dug up soft dirt WILL collapse under truck weight if its damp. has it rained in the last two weeks?? Your 2X material MAY work to run a manuel wheel barrow on. If its A LOT of cement get a pumper ,,,but costs are going up quick!!!
I've tried to use 2X materials and several sheets of plywood moving cement with my skid steer bucket and it still will snap these materials. Like you said it is your opinion that counts and it is you that has to hear about the yard smell to your neighbors after you break the sewer line.
SAS,

I just re-read the entire thread and I missed Bob's first post about not knowing the soil conditions and compaction. Sorry for my misinformation.

I would not chance it.
That's a good idea,

2x planks will snap like a toothpick to even a half full cement truck. Better find some bridge plank material. 'Here' that would entail finding where the county crew took out an old bridge lately and reclaiming a bunch of old used stuff. A double layer would not be too much,,and it better be on hard level surface,no holes or voids under neath.
That's a good idea, but then I also have to have a fairly heavy truck to haul that material in...

recently dug up soft dirt WILL collapse under truck weight if its damp. has it rained in the last two weeks?? Your 2X material MAY work to run a manuel wheel barrow on. If its A LOT of cement get a pumper ,,,but costs are going up quick!!!
It rained a week ago. The deepest section is fairly shaded as well. It's probably still damp down there.
Pumper

If its A LOT of cement get a pumper ,,,but costs are going up quick!!!
I could get a pumper... but I also need to get a lot of gravel in a dump truck. I bet it'll be about as heavy as the cement, but maybe not. I'd hate to have to wheel all that down the driveway, but it might be the only option...
I could get a pumper... but I also need to get a lot of gravel in a dump truck. I bet it'll be about as heavy as the cement, but maybe not. I'd hate to have to wheel all that down the driveway, but it might be the only option...
Again, check the cost of powered wheelbarrows.. that is what I use. Most all the time additions are in the rear with no access via truck. and if the truck gets stuck you have to pay for the tow and the extra time to get him out.
railroad ties

I've tried to use 2X materials and several sheets of plywood moving cement with my skid steer bucket and it still will snap these materials. Like you said it is your opinion that counts and it is you that has to hear about the yard smell to your neighbors after you break the sewer line.
What do you think about using old railroad ties? I could lay a bunch of them side by side perpendicular to the ditch and then attach them together so that the truck wouldn't move them...
If you have them these will work over 3/4" plywood to spread the weight.
Did you look into renting a power buggy for a couple of days? Less work than building a bridge out of railroad ties. You can use it for the gravel and also for the concrete. That would be my choice.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top