DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Painting a ceiling. I had some left over interior white. So I went to Lowe's and asked "what's the diff", and the paint rep said "Ceiling paint is more porous, will let moisture through. If you paint a ceiling with regular interior, the moisture can't get through and you start getting cobwebs with little black balls in the corner of the ceilings".

Any truth to this? I always thought the only diff was ceiling paint was a flatter sheen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,261 Posts
Totaly wrong.
Your are right, it's just a flat finish.
Rule #1 never take any advice from a box store. If they knew what they were doing why are they work there for low pay?
 

·
Rubbin walls since'79
Joined
·
2,518 Posts
The difference between a ceiling paint and a flat wall paint is that the ceiling paint is supposed to be the flattest finish. No wash at all. The cobweb comment was kinda of off-
You can use a wall flat- but it will still have a bit of angular sheen. On some ceilings that can make a difference.
And a quality ceiling paint isn't cheap. if the cheapest thing they have is ceiling paint, count on it also being the worst product on the shelf.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,039 Posts
Brushjockey, spot on as usual, although I might just disagree about the cheapest paint being ceiling paint and you shouldn't buy it........I love PPG's Ultra ceiling paint and I buy it at Menard's for about 17 dollars. It is dead flat and usually covers in one coat (flat on flat). I was having so much trouble with SW's Brilliance ceiling paint that I had to find something better.......thanks to ChrisN, I did.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chrisn

·
Registered
Joined
·
341 Posts
It involves the pigment:resin ratio. Quality flat wall paints have more acrylic resin in them to promote wear, washability, etc. Paints designated as ceiling paints have less resin and more filler pigments that make them dead flat so you wont see lap marks on the ceiling. Lapping is more noticeable in critical-light rooms. (Think big or many windows)

Because of less resins, which add to the cost, your lower-line flats are able to be sold at less cost.

You can use wall paint up there, but you may be dealing with flashing andd lapping issues. If you must use it, thin it a little with water to help. Don't exceed the manufacturer's recommendation or you wil get rained on by paint splatter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
That explanation by the Lowe's guy was pretty bizarre, pretty, pretty bizarre.
LOL! I'm standing there thinking "but do I *want* moisture to go through my paint, into the sheetrock and maybe into the airspace of the next floor, I mean, isn't that a bad thing?"

Thanks to everyone who contributed! Sometimes I hold back on here thinking someone will rake me over the coals for a real dumb question. But usually the people here are really kind. It's appreciated from a fairly newbie DIYer.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
2,392 Posts
LOL! I'm standing there thinking "but do I *want* moisture to go through my paint, into the sheetrock and maybe into the airspace of the next floor, I mean, isn't that a bad thing?"

Thanks to everyone who contributed! Sometimes I hold back on here thinking someone will rake me over the coals for a real dumb question. But usually the people here are really kind. It's appreciated from a fairly newbie DIYer.
Doug, moisture transfers through most all paints. Paints breathe. It's when they don't that you have problems. Higher sheens transfer less than low/no sheen.

The only people who get raked over the coals here are those ignorant DIY's who come here knowing nothing yet "knowing enough" to tell the pros here how it is and what works and doesn't. Also, those who need to be told something ten times in twenty different ways, and then insist that they're not getting any help. That's when it gets real fun here. Go ahead, make my day.:laughing: Use ceiling paint, that's what its made for. Then you won't have any little black balls in your corners.:laughing::laughing: The spiders are probably wondering what he meant by that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,180 Posts
If they knew what they were doing why are they work there for low pay?
I've wondered about that sometimes. Some of them are pretty clueless, yet some of them are surprisingly knowledgeable. (Not the paint section so much, but other sections like plumbing especially have the occasional expert. Maybe they're retired or something?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,829 Posts
Ceiling paint also has some anti-spatter/drip additives.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,180 Posts
Yeah. The challenge is telling them apart. :laughing:
True, true. I know which of my locals are good (Home Depot plumbing guy is really good.) For an unknown, I use a couple testing questions that I know the answer to down pat. For example, ask the electrical guy if a ground is required on the GFCI outlet. Or ask the tile guy if modified thinset should go on top of Ditra. Or ask the tool guy if the impact driver can be used to drill.

If he can't get them, I say "thanks" and don't even go to my real issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Some ceiling paints are actually not dead-flat, which is not good, when there is incoming light from high windows, cathedral ceilings, etc.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,039 Posts
JeffNC, Brilliance was supposed to be the reformulated Classic 99 Ceiling paint. I loved the Classic 99. For me, if I'm covering flat white with flat white I expect one coat to do the job, at the most 2 coats.......Brilliance just doesn't get it done for me. I get lap marks, poor coverage, etc., you get the picture. ChrisN got me hooked on the PPG Ultra. I was skeptical at first but after doing a couple ceilings with it, I was more than pleasantly surprised. Covered in one coat. Clean, white, no angular sheen. I was very happy. I'm not saying it works for every painter out there, but, it has worked for me.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top