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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have an old concrete block "ex" garage- exterior dimensions 12x30, with a hip roof, 6/12 slope, with 18' ridge. There are currently ceiling joists (We removed ceiling), and I would like to move them up a bit as rafter ties, and preferably omit every other one. From what I have read, rafter ties should be in the bottom 1/3 of slope.. On one end of the building, 8' section of of ceiling joists will stay in place, with decking on top for storage. So that leaves less than 20ft of roof we're talking about, with hip at one end. We get snow, so need to consider snow load. Am I crazy? Pretty confident about moving them up a little (Oregon code allows for rafter ties vs ceiling joists), big question is can I get away with removing every other one??? Some photos below.
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Remodel and New Build GC
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Basically an enginering question.....what is your roof and what is your snow load etc.

(I'd likely have a local engineer look at it before proceeding)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Basically an enginering question.....what is your roof and what is your snow load etc.

(I'd likely have a local engineer look at it before proceeding)
Roof is composite shingles over 3/4" shiplap. County specifies 36# / sq ft snowload.

Thanks for responding and I realize I am just asking for opinions here.
 

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Hammered Thumb
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Yeah, I get the higher ceiling, not a problem. I wouldn't skip any rafter ties, it doesn't really help "opening it up" anyway. Sitting here no one knows how well you'll fasten them to the rafters to begin with, how the top plate is into the CMU, and if there is any bond beam at the top course. In the old days, they would have been 2x4s @ 48" or 72" o.c., and it wouldn't fall down, but there's a thousand threads on sagging ridges and pushed out walls. Code calls for a rafter tie at every rafter now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah, I get the higher ceiling, not a problem. I wouldn't skip any rafter ties, it doesn't really help "opening it up" anyway. Sitting here no one knows how well you'll fasten them to the rafters to begin with, how the top plate is into the CMU, and if there is any bond beam at the top course. In the old days, they would have been 2x4s @ 48" or 72" o.c., and it wouldn't fall down, but there's a thousand threads on sagging ridges and pushed out walls. Code calls for a rafter tie at every rafter now.
Thanks for your input- much appreciated. I have read in OR code just how many nails at each rafter, which if they were originally installed with that many nails, I'll have lots of fun removing them to cut and move up. :)
 

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retired framer
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Thanks for your input- much appreciated. I have read in OR code just how many nails at each rafter, which if they were originally installed with that many nails, I'll have lots of fun removing them to cut and move up. :)
Key word is cut, just cut them flush with the wall and leave the part that is nailed to the rafter and plate.
 
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