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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been working on remodeling our master bedroom and now that all the ceiling texture is removed and now painted its time for the ceiling fan!

We currently have a wall mounted switch that controls an electric outlet. My plan is to turn the switched electric outlet into a regular one thats hot 100% of the time and not on a switch. I then plan to use that switch to power my ceiling fan.

I do however have a few questions. Is it possible if I add an additional switch to have one switch that controls the lights and the other that controls the fan.
How exactly would I be able to do this?

Can I use power from another source and run it to the switch for the constant power on both and run 12/2 from each switch to the fan? or how else should it be done?
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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Tell us how the existing switch and receptacle are wired.

I would run a 3 wire cable from the switch to the new fan box.
 

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Run 12/3 from the fan/light to the switch box. You already have power at the switch box or can get it on the cable that goes to the receptacle by making some wire changes in the receptacle box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Their is a constant hot 12/2 running to the switch and 12/2 from the switch end to the outlet.

I did go out and buy some 12/3 so I can wire the lights and fan on seperate switches.

How will I need to wire this? I will remove the current wiring from the switch and wirenut them together. I will use that as my power for the 2 switches.
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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Are you going to install a 2 gang switch box or use a combination switch (2 single pole switches on a single yoke)?
At the switch, connect a 3 whites together, connect the 2 existing blacks together and to the switches. Connect the red and black to the fan to the switches.
 

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I have been working on remodeling our master bedroom and now that all the ceiling texture is removed and now painted its time for the ceiling fan!

We currently have a wall mounted switch that controls an electric outlet. My plan is to turn the switched electric outlet into a regular one thats hot 100% of the time and not on a switch. I then plan to use that switch to power my ceiling fan.

I do however have a few questions. Is it possible if I add an additional switch to have one switch that controls the lights and the other that controls the fan.
How exactly would I be able to do this?

Can I use power from another source and run it to the switch for the constant power on both and run 12/2 from each switch to the fan? or how else should it be done?
I have done several ceiling fan installations under similar circumstances. Generally speaking, I remove the existing one gang switch box and cut the hole bigger for a new two gang box. I install a 14/3 Romex from the switch location to the new fan location. If there isn't a feed inside of the existing switch box, I change the connections at the switched outlet so that there is a hot and a neutral at the switch.

Of course there are a lot of variables and more details depending on age of the home and type of construction. If you post some pictures, we can all get a better idea of what you are working with. Is there an attic above the fan location?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I found an image online and was able to go by that to wire my fan, It worked out great for me. I will add that in this post. I also took some photos of my progress. Please tell me if I did it properly, and if something looks like it needs fixed or just plain wrong tell me, I'm not going to be one of those guys who throw a fit when someone says its wrong! I'm about doing things/ making things correct and as close to professional as can.

Here is the diagram I used.
 

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I found an image online and was able to go by that to wire my fan, It worked out great for me. I will add that in this post. I also took some photos of my progress. Please tell me if I did it properly, and if something looks like it needs fixed or just plain wrong tell me, I'm not going to be one of those guys who throw a fit when someone says its wrong! I'm about doing things/ making things correct and as close to professional as can.

Here is the diagram I used.
How many #12 conductors are allowed in that box? It should be stamped inside. The devices account for two conductors each and the grounds only count as one. Is this connected to an outlet circuit?

My personal tips: I like to install an old work box next to a wall stud and shoot one #8 sheet metal screw through it into the stud.

I have my own method of cutting access holes. I cut while holding the keyhole saw at a forty five degree angle with the tip of the blade pointing inward. I can then patch the hole back up just using joint compound on the cut edges. No need to tape or put any wood behind. I have an example of this on my YouTube channel. Lately I have been using my multi-function tool to cut out access holes. The thinner blade makes a better repair job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How many #12 conductors are allowed in that box? It should be stamped inside. The devices account for two conductors each and the grounds only count as one. Is this connected to an outlet circuit?

My personal tips: I like to install an old work box next to a wall stud and shoot one #8 sheet metal screw through it into the stud.

I have my own method of cutting access holes. I cut while holding the keyhole saw at a forty five degree angle with the tip of the blade pointing inward. I can then patch the hole back up just using joint compound on the cut edges. No need to tape or put any wood behind. I have an example of this on my YouTube channel. Lately I have been using my multi-function tool to cut out access holes. The thinner blade makes a better repair job.
I am unsure of the number of conductors required? I never looked or knew it said that in the box. I did however buy the largest cu. in. box that they sell typically in lowes. The power coming into the outlet box is also the hot for a outlet circuit.

I wish I thought of cutting an access hole like you stated!
 
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