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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have three 1-3/4 x 18in LVL's that make up my ridge beam. Pic attached. Want to eventually put a fan right in the middle of the beam.

Trying to figure out what kind of fan box to use and how to get the wire to the fan box. My first thought was to drill a 1/2in hole from the bottom at an angle and come out somewhere in my rafters. Looking some stuff up online... It seems its discouraged to drill anything on these ridge beams?

Wondering what you guys would do.


Thanks!
 

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· Electrician
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I dont think that will work. The fan needs to go on the ridge beam. The ridge beam hangs down lower then the rafters.
I edited my post but I guess you didn't see that.

How are you planning on finishing the ceiling?

If its all being drywalled, this is the way I would do it:
Something similar could be made on site using some 2x4 and a fan box. Run a couple of 2x4 horizontal from one rafter to the other, and drywall the whole thing in. Fan box can be mounted directly to the beam.

But without knowing how you plan to finish the ceiling its hard to suggest anything.

Will it be drywalled directly to the bottom of the ridge beam creating a flat part at the peak? If so, put strapping up, and mount a 1/2" deep box to the strapping, and you'll be able to get the wire into the box with the extra depth from the strapping.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.
 

· Naildriver
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Drilling a 1/2" hole for cable into a triple LVL will present absolutely no problem. I would drill it at an angle from the center of the middle LVL to the outside above the sheetrock line and install a fan rated pancake box on the flat.
 

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While on the subject about how that ceiling will be finished, how will it be insulated and ventilated? Probably best discussed in another thread.

Sorry for drifting, pictures often raise new questions, but that can be good.

Bud
 

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From the pictures not all of the rafter bays are continuous from low to high so as id they will not be well vented.

Moisture and condensation can occur at other than below zero temperatures, in some cases just cool nights.

There are solutions for complex vaulted ceilings but you are passed that point, strapping above the rafters. At this point I don't see an easy solution. Did you design this or was an architect involved?

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
From the pictures not all of the rafter bays are continuous from low to high so as id they will not be well vented.

Moisture and condensation can occur at other than below zero temperatures, in some cases just cool nights.

There are solutions for complex vaulted ceilings but you are passed that point, strapping above the rafters. At this point I don't see an easy solution. Did you design this or was an architect involved?

Bud
Architect was involved.
 

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I'm surprised an Architect would miss the ventilation issues and mot sure where you are but few locations allow only R-30 insulation. But s/he has the insurance when needed to fix any mold or moisture problems.

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I'm surprised an Architect would miss the ventilation issues and mot sure where you are but few locations allow only R-30 insulation. But s/he has the insurance when needed to fix any mold or moisture problems.

Bud
Not sure how code works for a non-livable structure. I didn't think i even needed to insulate it if I didn't want to. Its a little club house with a bathroom to use when we are in the pool. This way the kids don't make a mess all wet going through the house to use the bathroom.

Looks like i can also do R38 ini the ceiling

R-38C EcoTouch® PINK® Fiberglas™
Insulation for 2x12 Cathedral Ceilings
 
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