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· Home Builder and Webmaste
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I recently built a new house and my electrician is gone MIA. For the first year the light to the ceiling fan would delay a few seconds before it would power on. A few days ago it stopped working at all. The ceiling fan would still work but the light does not work after i have tried these things....

1.swapped switch with a known working one.
2.Pulled switches from box and inspected for a bad connection.
3.Bypassed the pull chain.
4.Removed fan from ceiling to inspect.
5.Checked connections at mounting plate before removal.

My next thing to do is bypass the limiter switch. I talked with an electrican about a possible bad connection in the downrod but that electrician sand that likely there was no break in the line as new fan come with enough wire to pull through the rod. Indeed, ceiling fan type wires(appears aliminum stranded) are sticking out the end of the down rod.

What i havent tried...
1.I havent checked the 2nd switch(3 way connection) it worked in the past.
2.I havent followed the cables in the attic to inpsect for a bad connection.

Its a hunter ceiling fan/light combo and has been used very little with the original bulbs that came in the box.

Any thoughts?
 

· Home Builder and Webmaste
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay guys, i bought a pen tester and tested the switches/ connections, wired the fan and light wires together so when i turn on the fan the light should power up. all the switches have power, the light still dont come on despite the wiring change. i tested for power at the wiring harness just below the fan between the lights and fan the tester showed power that far. So, i went looking for info and have determined that by slim chance all my bulbs have blown at the same time or there is a wire loose inside the downrod or defect at the light kit. im not one to throw the towel and buy something new but im almost to that point. this is ridiculous. any other suggestions?
 

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In the op he said that
He had already bypassed
The limiter !
So I think it is not the limiter.
Re read the OP.
He said my next thing to do is to bypass the limiter switch. He did not say that he had done it.

He needs to tell us that he tried it, or he needs to do it.
It sure sounds like it could be the wattage limiter.
 

· Home Builder and Webmaste
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re read the OP.
He said my next thing to do is to bypass the limiter switch. He did not say that he had done it.

He needs to tell us that he tried it, or he needs to do it.
It sure sounds like it could be the wattage limiter.
My apologies, i have bypassed the limiter switch and the pull chain as well but forgot to mention that.
 

· Home Builder and Webmaste
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK guys, i think i have narrowed down the problem but not completely finished yet. All 4 light bulbs were blown, 1 or both switches are faulty and there was a half break in one of the wires inside light switch box. Although, all the wiring is the same my electrician friend says i have traveler wire in the wrong place since one switch will cut the light out and wont allow the other switch to turn on, but i think its a faulty switch, i bought two new switches and will likely replace both. If i didnt buy a pen tester i would still be scratching my head.
 

· Home Builder and Webmaste
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Make sure you note which wire is on the common when you swap the switches. The common is the black screw. It not always in the same position between different switches.
I have been very careful with the wire configuration. it all worked the way its wired now in the past, so im rolling the dice on faulty switch, but if that dont fix it ill reverse the wires.
 

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Although, all the wiring is the same my electrician friend says i have traveler wire in the wrong place since one switch will cut the light out and wont allow the other switch to turn on,
He is probably correct.
One of the most common mistakes is to attach the black traveller to the common screw and the black line or load wire to the traveller screw. This makes one switch the master.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
He is probably correct.
One of the most common mistakes is to attach the black traveller to the common screw and the black line or load wire to the traveller screw. This makes one switch the master.
as it stands now, the black wire is connected to the black screw, red wire above that screw and red wire on other side at top( the black wire has insulation removed from it and bent so it will fit under the screw and continues to another switch. that bend is where the wire was at fault and finally broke...i made two straight ends and connected them back to the black screw.
 

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the black wire has insulation removed from it and bent so it will fit under the screw and continues to another switch
This indicates to me it is the power feed wire and should be on the COMMON screw which appears to be where you have it. So that switch would be wired correctly.

I doubt that was the problem or the light would not have come on at all.
 

· Home Builder and Webmaste
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This indicates to me it is the power feed wire and should be on the COMMON screw which appears to be where you have it. So that switch would be wired correctly.

I doubt that was the problem or the light would not have come on at all.
I did try reversing the wires but got the same result. one acts as master switch. i didnt try a new switch because i simply forgot to take it with me. so everything is working except i need to find out how to make the master act as a 3 way switch. I have come so far with this.....light wouldnt work, troubleshooting rendered nothing because all four light bulbs were blown. removed wattage limiter and pull chain switch before i knew the bulbs were blown. Someone please help me with this so i can wrap it up.
 

· Home Builder and Webmaste
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you know where the cables go, then for three way wiring one common screw gets the power wire from the panel. The other common screw gets the switched hot wire to the light fixture.
It almost has to be a faulty switch because it was wired right before i reversed the wires. Ill try that next and update you then.
 
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