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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Two issuses with ceiling drywall:
1) Scraping popcorn off the ceiling has left some rough spots in the drywall paper.
2) Removing walls has left holes where the wall plate was.

Assuming we'll just skim coat the rough areas, is there an easy way to first smooth out the areas where the drywall paper is damaged?

What's a good way to repair the long openings where the wall plate was attached to trusses?

Thanks!
 

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Before skim coating the gouged areas I would suggest using a product called Gardz (might be spelled Guardz). In any case, it is a paint on sealer that "glues" any loose areas back to the substrate. Specifically, the edges of the drywall paper around the gouges. It has the consistency of water so ne sure to use dropclpths. When it dries it is like a coating of plastic on the problem areas. Then you can spackle and paint without worry.

I know it is too late now, but, whenever I remove popcorn texture from my rental properties, i get a garden sprayer and fill it with water and a couple drops of liquid dish soap. I spray that on the popcorn heavily and let it sit for a few minutes. I then use a 6 inch spackle knife to scrape the popcorn off of the ceiling or wall. It is like scraping icing off a cake. I then go back with a damp rag or a sponge mop. It works like a charm. I should add that i use the throwaway plastic dropcloths ehen doing this, so that, at the end, i just roll up the popcorn inside the plastic dropcloths and throw it all away.

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For where the wallplate was, you should be able to simply add drywall, and tape the edges and spackle with joint compound. You may have to install nailers to catch the edges of the drywall but that should not be difficult. When i do that type of repair i prefer to use quickset 20 (a setting type of joint compound that comes as a powder that you mix with water), because that allows me to put on two or three coats in one day. I dont put it on thick since i only scrape the ridges and tool marks between coats. I only sand after the final coat, and i make sure that final coat has dried for at least 24 hours.

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Before you use the Gardz (or KILZ), sand the areas to remove loose paper. Makes for less mud work in the end..... Otherwise, jeff pretty much covered it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies!

I hit it with my PC drywall sander it it looks good enough to skimcoat.

Is there a good reason to still use the Gardz?
If the paper is not broken, is it ok to use topping mix or do i need to use grneral purpose first??
 

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Drywall contractor
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You may get lucky and be able to skim right over it, but it's been my experience that there will be some residual dust/spray residue and the mud will not want to bond in some places. You can give it a try. Just my personal preference, but I don't use anything but all-purpose compound (unless it's quick set for patching).
 

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Just my two cents, usually the drywall taper isn't real picky when he knows popcorn will be applied (it covers a multitude of errors), as it looks in your case. Just be aware, those taped joints are pretty rough...need at least another coat, then the skim, IMHO. Hold a straight blade edge over them, or a bright light next to the ceiling for the deepest gouges.

Gary
 
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