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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We're debating whether to put a backsplash over a hardwood vanity top or just have a plain joint to the wall. If the vanity just butts up against the wall with a 1/8" gap, is caulk (clear) in that joint going to work long-term?

The drywall was treated with Gardz due to paper damage. The drywall is getting a pretty thick coat of mud (may finish close 1/8"). I plan to apply a sealing primer and a couple of coats of the best bathroom-recommended latex paint I can get to the wall.

I don't expect the vanity to be flooded with water, but stuff happens...
 

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Back splash would be best especially if you have young children but caulk would work fine also. Caulk is much easier and less expensive. I would use OSI quad caulk and not silicone. Silicone is a PITA to remove. Stay away from the bathroom "tub and tile" caulk. It's just more expensive and more difficult to apply a nice bead by squeezing that small tube it comes in.
Don't get trapped in the box thinking OSI caulk is for exterior use and I need caulk for my interior bathroom. I've use OSI for years in bathrooms and kitchens and it works great. Easy to clean also.
 

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retired painter
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Stay away from the bathroom "tub and tile" caulk. It's just more expensive and more difficult to apply a nice bead by squeezing that small tube it comes in.

It also comes in a traditional caulking tub. I also don't want to use any squeeze tube caulk!


OSI is some great caulk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the caulk recommendation. Is the clear formulation of OSI as good as the opaque versions?

In addition to the caulk, I'm wondering if the drywall is at risk if some water sits at the joint once in a while. I actually haven't finished building up that area of the coating yet, so I could use either hot mud or premix there if hot mud is more durable. I used some USG Silver Set in another area and it's not really that hard to sand (unlike Durabond, from what I've heard, although I haven't used that ever). I would be happy to coat that backsplash area with Silver Set it mattered.
 

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retired painter
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I've never noticed any quality differences between clear and colored caulk.


If the wall is primed and coated with a latex enamel [any sheen] it should have all the protection it needs from moisture. Moisture that gets behind the drywall or vanity would be a bigger concern.
 

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retired painter
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Premix is water soluble while hot mud is not but if the premixed is primed and painted with a latex enamel water should not get to the mud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hardwood backsplash set into osi at the bottom and back.
You're a mind-reader! That's what I'm most inclined to do in this room, painted with a contrasting accent color to jazz things up.

But I'm exploring my options in case we get the walls painted and the fixtures installed then decide we want to keep the look as simple as possible.

I assume I won't get the walls *perfectly* flat (one of them is starting with nearly a 1/4" of hollow, that I'm hoping to mostly coat out) and the last pieces of 1 x 6 maple lumber I bought weren't impressively straight, either. I built a 50" long cabinet door and had to accept a visible bow in it.

Hopefully the warps in the wood can be matched to the flaws in my wall. I assume that going into drywall, there's no way any fasteners will provide enough grip to pull the lumber flat, right? So, do you use *only* the OSI to put up the backsplash, or a couple of finish nails or something just to keep it there until the caulk sets?
 
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