[ladyvincenza]

Hi,
I don't know who to ask about this, since it seems complicated. I used my thermal leak detector (Black and Decker) and detected leaky windows. I'm not sure how reliable this or any leak detector is, since the data it gives me seems to change all the time. Anyway, I put some weatherstrip caulking cord (Mortite) on some of the windows, but the leak detector seemed to say that there was still a leak. My question is, did I not use the leak detector right, or the caulking cord right, or what? Also, short of getting new windows all over the house, which would be an expensive venture, is there anything less time consuming then caulking the windows each fall and removing the caulk each spring? Sorry for the long post, but I am new at this.

 

[Bud9051]

Hi ladyv and welcome to the forum, you'll be glad you stopped by.
First, tell me more about your leak detector. I suspect it is just measuring temperature, but have never used one marketed specifically for leaks.

Also, are your windows double pane, two pieces of glass close together. That will tell us how efficient they are and the bad news is, new windows aren't much better.

If it is measuring just temperature that would explain why the leaks didn't go away, windows are always cold.

Make and model of that leak detector so I can look up what it is trying to do.

Bud

 

[ladyvincenza]

Hi Bud,
Yeah, it does work by measuring temperature. It is Black and Decker TLD100 (I can't get this site to let me post a link)
If windows are always cold, then I don't know what good this item is
I'm not sure about the windows themselves, but I think they are double paned.
Any advice for me?

 

[Bud9051]

I found it, it is an infrared thermometer and they can help. But you will need to differentiate between just cold spots and spots that are cold because of cold air leaking in. Even though windows are always cold, they do also leak air, between the top and bottom assemblies (double hung style) the latch has to hold them tight. And around the window trim there can often be air leaking in. I find a tiny feather (or fuzzy) on a thread is very sensitive to any air leaks. Slow, but sensitive.

I will often use the back of my hand to test for cold air.

I'll assume you are looking for ways to keep the house warm and the fuel bills down, you and half of America. Give us an idea as to what part of the country your are in, how you heat the house, and describe the house for us.

Others will jump in with help on posting pictures and links (I hope).

As for the windows themselves, the best quick fix, for next year, is to cover them with the shrink plastic. I've seen windows covered and you can't tell. But that would improve the performance to equal new windows.

Bud

 

[ladyvincenza]

I live in Chelmsford, MA. You're right; I want to be energy efficient. The house was built in 1920 and I think the windows are 2 or 3 years old. Sorry, I don't have a whole lot of information.
Anyway, if the leak detector I mentioned doesn't really detect leaks, what is it good for? I feel like I may have wasted time and money on this product.
Thanks!

 

[Bud9051]

I'll get to the leak detector in a minute.
The original windows in a 1920 home may essentially still be there, at least the original framing. While it is cold test for air leaking in around the trim, where the trim meets the plaster or where the trim meets the window. Being only a few years old, the most you would do is remove the old trim and inspect to see how well they air sealed and insulated around the new windows.

As for the leak detector, it can do more than detect leaks. If you have a basement, that is a great place to do some inspecting. The leaks down there will typically be at the top of the foundation. As for doing more, check your attic access door, basement door, and any recessed lights.

Bud

 

[ladyvincenza]

OK. So should I give up on the caulking cord? What is the best thing to do? You mentioned the shrink plastic; anything else? I've never really used shrink plastic; is it difficult? Does it need to be removed/put on every 6 months? Thanks.

 

[Bud9051]

I'm not sure where you want to use the caulker cord or what size gap you are filling. I'm more familiar with the term "backer rod" which is used when the gap is too large to properly fill with caulking. For smaller cracks, 1/8th of an inch and down, the caulking by itself should be fine.

The first place to caulk is usually on the outside where the siding meets the trim. If the gap has already been caulked it is best to remove most of the old before adding new. Not always possible or practical, but best.

On the inside, if the gap is between painted trim and the drywall, then be sure to use a paintable caulking.

If you have questions about a specific areas, post some pictures. I'm not the only one following the thread so others will jump in as they see options.

Bud