I would.
Cap the gas line?
We are switching from a gas range to electric. I disconnected the gas line after turning off the valve. Since it will not be in use should I buy a cap to put over the end of the gas line?
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I went to HD to buy a cap and the guy said I should remove the "flange". That seems like overkill to me(and he didn't seem sure of himself)so I'm going to try capping it as is. I'll wrap some Teflon tape on it first. Seems simple but I get a little paranoid messing with the gas lines. A dumb mistake could have serious consequences.
If it is a flared fitting at the end, you remove, then screw the plug into the valve female thread. As for the tape, you have to use the Yellow, or just do the smart thing, and use the pipe compound, since most people do not wrap enough turns around the threads of fittings, nor tighten it enough.
When done, you take some soapy solution and spray around the fitting to see if it bubbles when the gas is on. No bubbles, you did fine.
When done, you take some soapy solution and spray around the fitting to see if it bubbles when the gas is on. No bubbles, you did fine.
Ayuh,.... If it's a Flare fittin',...If it is a flared fitting at the end, you remove, then screw the plug into the valve female thread. As for the tape, you have to use the Yellow, or just do the smart thing, and use the pipe compound, since most people do not wrap enough turns around the threads of fittings, nor tighten it enough.
When done, you take some soapy solution and spray around the fitting to see if it bubbles when the gas is on. No bubbles, you did fine.
No sealants at All should be used, tape, paste, or otherwise...
'n, Myself, I'd drop back to the Other end of that feed line, to it's beginning, not where the stove is/ was...
Did not read the whole post, just part of it Moxie. Maybe go back and reread. And as for regular threads, you use pipe thread compound, or the Yellow teflon tape, to help lubricate the threads, to allow you to tighten the fitting. As for flared, yes it is no tape, but again, you did not read the whole post, and assumed it was all about one subject.
Code says you must cap or plug the valve and the valve needs to be in the off position. So you need to remove the appliance connector.We are switching from a gas range to electric. I disconnected the gas line after turning off the valve. Since it will not be in use should I buy a cap to put over the end of the gas line?
And never trust a man in a orange apron :wink:
Your telling me! I'm going to have to pull the whole thing out and redo it. I put a cap on the flange with yellow Teflon tape. I'll remove that and the flange and buy a plug.And never trust a man in a orange apron :wink:
What is the difference between white and yellow T-tape?
White is for water, Yellow is for gas. Gas will eat the Teflon tape, due to different manufacturing. No, you do not need the tape on a flared fitting, only when connecting a regular cut threaded fitting, or pipe dope, which is better.
The tape & dope keeps the fitting from becoming frozen in place over time, and makes it easier to remove, but on brass fittings, you do not have to worry about that. Only reason some people use teflon tape on water connections for sink, toilet lines, is just extra security, in case a leak happens pass the rubber o-ring inside the hose.
The tape & dope keeps the fitting from becoming frozen in place over time, and makes it easier to remove, but on brass fittings, you do not have to worry about that. Only reason some people use teflon tape on water connections for sink, toilet lines, is just extra security, in case a leak happens pass the rubber o-ring inside the hose.
No such thing as Teflon tape. You're thinking of pipe thread tape. Tape and dope lubricates the threads so they can be turned more, creating a better seal. It also does make it so you can take apart later on. Brass fittings typically don't need dope or tape because they seal with compression and are a metal to metal seal (eg. flare fittings). If you had a brass nipple with tapered threads, you'd need dope or tape to get it to seal properly.
Harriken cap on gas line
You should turn the gas valve to off, remove the flex gas line. Then install a flared female gas cap on the male flared gas valve without any sealant This is all flared connections.
General rule is as follows:
Using white tape 3 or 4 wraps in the same direction that the connected fitting is spun so that this action aids in filling the threads. There is a Blue Monster PTFE thread tape which is superior and wel worth the extra money. Yellow tape on gas or a pipe thread sealer paste. Always read the printed label and throw away old stuff it does go bad. So pipe dope on metal threads only the male fitting itself never on both male and female as the dope will likely enter the pipe otherwise. Use plumber putty on sink flanges. Silicone grease only where a lubricant is needed where it is already a water proof seal. Nothing is needed where there is a rubber or fiber type washer like a water flex supply or a compression fitting.
Hope this helps however my name is Mr Leak
You should turn the gas valve to off, remove the flex gas line. Then install a flared female gas cap on the male flared gas valve without any sealant This is all flared connections.
General rule is as follows:
Using white tape 3 or 4 wraps in the same direction that the connected fitting is spun so that this action aids in filling the threads. There is a Blue Monster PTFE thread tape which is superior and wel worth the extra money. Yellow tape on gas or a pipe thread sealer paste. Always read the printed label and throw away old stuff it does go bad. So pipe dope on metal threads only the male fitting itself never on both male and female as the dope will likely enter the pipe otherwise. Use plumber putty on sink flanges. Silicone grease only where a lubricant is needed where it is already a water proof seal. Nothing is needed where there is a rubber or fiber type washer like a water flex supply or a compression fitting.
Hope this helps however my name is Mr Leak
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