Usually the cantilever is limited to 1/4 of total length so that looks like you are fine but i would think about making the edge beams out of 2x6 with shorter studs in the wall below.
Cantilever: how much support?
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We're planning to build a tiny house with the living room cantilevered 20" over the trailer tongue. There will be 3.5"x3.5" floor joists 24" o.c. supporting the cantilever, and they will have 7'-long clear spans between the ledger beam and the wall posts/studs. (See images, below.)
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The above image also shows how a 20" bumpout over the trailer tongue will help support the middle half of the cantilevered floor. The living room floor will be 10' wide, and the bumpout will be 5' wide.
My question is whether the bumpout plus the floor joists will provide sufficient support for the cantilevered living room? Or should I also add a pair of knee braces to the corners of the cantilevered floor? If I need knee braces, then should I construct them with 2x4s, 4x4s, or something else? (See image, below.)
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The cantilevered floor will support a 6.5'-high (at the peak) gabled wall, so it won't be load bearing except at the two ends (where the knee braces could go, if necessary). The rest of the cantilever will support a wall of closets, so fairly uniformly distributed, static weight. The roof probably will have 6" eaves and 6" rakes. Any more information needed? Thanks for any advice you can offer.
The above image also shows how a 20" bumpout over the trailer tongue will help support the middle half of the cantilevered floor. The living room floor will be 10' wide, and the bumpout will be 5' wide.
My question is whether the bumpout plus the floor joists will provide sufficient support for the cantilevered living room? Or should I also add a pair of knee braces to the corners of the cantilevered floor? If I need knee braces, then should I construct them with 2x4s, 4x4s, or something else? (See image, below.)
The cantilevered floor will support a 6.5'-high (at the peak) gabled wall, so it won't be load bearing except at the two ends (where the knee braces could go, if necessary). The rest of the cantilever will support a wall of closets, so fairly uniformly distributed, static weight. The roof probably will have 6" eaves and 6" rakes. Any more information needed? Thanks for any advice you can offer.
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The general rule is 1/4 so for a 20" cantilever if the beam is 80 inches long.
You said the beams will be 104" long so that should be good
When we build a bump out for a window seat we run the side plywood into the wall and trap it between two studs and that usually gets 5/8" floor plywood instead of the osb we are using on the rest of the house.
The side walls of the structure above this floor can be sheeted like a stress wall which would help support this corner.
I would differently make the beam on the outside a beam, that would be at least 2 plys of the 2x6.
You said the beams will be 104" long so that should be good
When we build a bump out for a window seat we run the side plywood into the wall and trap it between two studs and that usually gets 5/8" floor plywood instead of the osb we are using on the rest of the house.
The side walls of the structure above this floor can be sheeted like a stress wall which would help support this corner.
I would differently make the beam on the outside a beam, that would be at least 2 plys of the 2x6.
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I have never figured out what holds the front of a cab over on .
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