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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I have recenlty purchased a brand new mini-split a/c, followed installation directions to a "T" but can't seem to get unit to turn on. I have included a picture to show the wiring diagram of the unit(s), all wires are in their correct location for I have checked them countless times now. I have just purchased a multi meter as well as a 400amp clamp style amp meter, both of which I have no experience in using. So hopefully someone can help me trouble shoot this process, in hopes that I dont have a faulty unit.

Some of what I know:

the wire coming from the fuse box is hooked to a double 20amp breaker.

No fuses on the units that I can find.

the previous compressor (outdoor unit) works and still works, so I don't think the problem lies from fuse box to outdoor unit.

all wires used are wires that came with unit (installation kit) 12gauge.

using amp meter with old outdoor unit I get a reading of 7, but nothing with new unit, because it's not turning on and pulling anything I guess.

May be unsafe and silly but I've tested each connection all the way from outdoor unit to indoor unit by shocking MYSELF, thats each single wire: red, black, white all had shocking power to my finger by using the grounding wire on each unit.

The remote is supposed to turn indoor unit on, which then turns outdoor compressor on, but with the remote by pressing power on, I get nothing. the remote lcd screen works so, I don't think its bad batteries, also there is a physical on off switch on the indoor unit, but it also does nothing when pressed.


So, with all that being said I guess my question is how do I use the meters I have to see if the unit(s) are faulty, or how do I get this thing to turn on?

house and unit are 110.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I think you will need a bit more of information. You say the wires are correctly wired but do not say how they are wired. If you explain your exact wiring configuration (i.e. I connected the black coming from the breaker to the black on the outdoor unit) I am sure some of the guys in here will be able to help you out. You have some pretty smart guys in here.


Ooops, kind of late.
 

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The manufacturer and model of the unit might help.
Do you ave anything else like a wiring diagram from the manufacturer, or a picture of the actual connections.
Have you tried to call the manufacturer to ask them, maybe there is a known issue that they can help you with.

Also you bought a multimeter... WHY WOULD YOU SHOCK YOUR SELF TO TEST FOR VOLTAGE? If you spent money to buy the proper tools, use them, and learn how to use them properly.
 

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May be unsafe and silly but I've tested each connection all the way from outdoor unit to indoor unit by shocking MYSELF, thats each single wire: red, black, white all had shocking power to my finger by using the grounding wire on each unit.
That is an excellent way to get killed. Really. These are just two of many, many examples of someone killed by a standard 120V circuit.

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/face/In-house/full8841.html

http://www.clickorlando.com/money/7302637/detail.html
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for all the replies guys, I will try to answer all the best as possible, also I have some additional photos as well as links so hopefully we can figure this out.

untitled.bmp is an exact copy of the manual, I scanned the manual but the file was to big so I just drew it on paint.

And the following photos are just pictures to verify that the wires are placed where they should be, also in the manual there are wires numbered 2 and 3 but my unit does not have those two. I'm guessing that is for an alternate unit. But the unit(s) and the wires that came with it are marked on the wire and where each wire connects from unit to unit for dummy proof wiring (Oh how dumb I will feel If somehow it wired incorrectly).

1=red
L1=black
N1=white
ground symbol=green

Model number for the indoor unit is KF-35GW/GX1b After googling this I found an indepth breakdown of the unit which maybe helpful: page 18 and 19 on this pdf are wired exactly like mine http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/NapDuctlessManual.pdf

As for AND functions, I dont know, I read that whole page but wasn't following, although I have search the unit for fuses but cant find any that are exposed. If you look at the indoor picture behind the tiny wires to the right is a circuit board which may have fuses on it, but it seems I would have to dismantle the whole unit to access. Another thing to note that your comment reminded me of, in the manual about the remote it mentions that when each button on the remote is pressed with the remote pointing toward the unit, signal is sent when the signal is recieved a sound is emitted. I have tried this, but nothing happened.

I don't have a picture of the outdoor unit to power but I have double check it just to make sure, black to black, white to white, green to ground(exposed wire). The unit I'm replacing is old but still works, where I disconnect the old unit, the black,white,ground wire, I'm simply connecting the new unit (compressor) to black,white,ground wires and I get nothing. However I can reconnect old unit and it works.

I have contacted the manufacturer but they wernt to helpful, pretty much told me to contact an electrician. So here I'am :yes:.

As for shocking myself, I wanted to see if I was recieving power from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit. I was unable to figure out how to use the multi-meter, and without the unit actually being on I couldnt get a reading using the amp meter.

If additional information would be helpful let me know, I will do my best, I want to get this thing working, any troubleshooting instructions would be aswesome and I will report the results.

Thank once agian.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just to be clear on the second picture, the diagram in the manual has the ground to the far right to where all the wires are put into, but on the compressor there isnt a slot for the ground wire there. If you look at the picture the gold screw to the bottom right of the wires is where the ground symbol was so thats where I put it. It seems liked common sense so I hope it is.
 

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Your link has wiring diagrams. After finding the correct one you should carefully measure voltages at component terminals with respect to the neutral terminal and post the values. Start with the 6.3A fuse.

Why don't you have the reasonable fear of electricity that most people have?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your link has wiring diagrams. After finding the correct one you should carefully measure voltages at component terminals with respect to the neutral terminal and post the values. Start with the 6.3A fuse.

Why don't you have the reasonable fear of electricity that most people have?
Ok, from my link http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/i...lessManual.pdf
on page 18 I see the 6.3A fuse.

From the third picture I uploaded it seems I can't access this without taking it completely apart, if you take a look at page 10 from the link, it appears that I need to disassemble down to #31-38.

Should I be doing this or is there something I'm missing?
 

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Hello everyone,

I have recenlty purchased a brand new mini-split a/c, followed installation directions to a "T" but can't seem to get unit to turn on. I have included a picture to show the wiring diagram of the unit(s), all wires are in their correct location for I have checked them countless times now. I have just purchased a multi meter as well as a 400amp clamp style amp meter, both of which I have no experience in using. So hopefully someone can help me trouble shoot this process, in hopes that I dont have a faulty unit.

Some of what I know:

the wire coming from the fuse box is hooked to a double 20amp breaker.

No fuses on the units that I can find.

the previous compressor (outdoor unit) works and still works, so I don't think the problem lies from fuse box to outdoor unit.

all wires used are wires that came with unit (installation kit) 12gauge.

using amp meter with old outdoor unit I get a reading of 7, but nothing with new unit, because it's not turning on and pulling anything I guess.

May be unsafe and silly but I've tested each connection all the way from outdoor unit to indoor unit by shocking MYSELF, thats each single wire: red, black, white all had shocking power to my finger by using the grounding wire on each unit.

The remote is supposed to turn indoor unit on, which then turns outdoor compressor on, but with the remote by pressing power on, I get nothing. the remote lcd screen works so, I don't think its bad batteries, also there is a physical on off switch on the indoor unit, but it also does nothing when pressed.


So, with all that being said I guess my question is how do I use the meters I have to see if the unit(s) are faulty, or how do I get this thing to turn on?

house and unit are 110.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.



It appears you are trying to run a 120VAC unit using 240V power. :eek: I agree that your unit appears to be a 120V unit, based on the drawings. Verify with the nameplate (post a clear picture of it!).

(A) If it is 120V unit, using your meter, set on AC volts, range at least 250V, verify voltage at your incoming power at the outdoor unit. You should have:

Black to white = 120V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = <1.0V.

(B) If your power is from a true double pole breaker, you will read:
Black to white = 240V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = 120V.

(C) If your power if from a tandem breaker (frequently mistaken for a double-pole), you will read:
Black to white = 0V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = 120V.

I think you have situation "B".

If so, you need to redo the breaker panel supply power to supply power from a single pole breaker (black wire), and hook the white wire to the neutral bus in your panel.

If you don't think you can do this safely - call an electrician!

...and your unit might also be damaged if you put 240V on it...is it a Soleus unit?...
 

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I would agree with williswires on this.... you are trying to run a 120V unit at 240V. Hopefully you haven't damaged the electronics by doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
It appears you are trying to run a 120VAC unit using 240V power. :eek: I agree that your unit appears to be a 120V unit, based on the drawings. Verify with the nameplate (post a clear picture of it!).

(A) If it is 120V unit, using your meter, set on AC volts, range at least 250V, verify voltage at your incoming power at the outdoor unit. You should have:

Black to white = 120V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = <1.0V.

(B) If your power is from a true double pole breaker, you will read:
Black to white = 240V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = 120V.

(C) If your power if from a tandem breaker (frequently mistaken for a double-pole), you will read:
Black to white = 0V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = 120V.

I think you have situation "B".

If so, you need to redo the breaker panel supply power to supply power from a single pole breaker (black wire), and hook the white wire to the neutral bus in your panel.

If you don't think you can do this safely - call an electrician!

...and your unit might also be damaged if you put 240V on it...is it a Soleus unit?...
Willis your AWESOME!!! I feel like I'm getting somewhere now, hopefully I didn't damage my unit. Here is a picture of the outdoor unit panel, also a picture of the fuse box.

Your right about situation "B" I used my meter and those where the results I got.

So, I feel I can do the work myself without paying an electrician, I just need to be told what to do and understand some terminology.

You need to redo the breaker panel supply power to supply power from a single pole breaker (black wire), and hook the white wire to the neutral bus in your panel.

By doing this can I leave the black wire I'm already connecting to connected? And do I have to actually run the white wire all the way to the fuse box? Please elaborate on this step.

The outdoor unit(compressor is a Chigo while the indoor unit is a Toshiba.

Thank you so much for your clarity and help thus far, cross your fingers and hope with me that I didn't damage this unit...we will soon find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did some research on fuse boxes and was able to find a single pole breaker. After connecting the outdoor unit to the single pole breaker, white to white, black to black, ground to ground. Turned breaker on. Used my meter and now my results are where they should be:

Black to white 120v
black to ground 120v
white to ground <1

Grabbed remote pressed power and nothing :(.

I think I may have damaged the unit, I also used the meter to test the wires at the indoor unit and I'm getting the same readings as above, so I'm pretty sure everything is connected properly from indoor to outdoor to power.

What can I do now?
 

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This is a 115 volt system with a minimum ampacity requirement of 14 amps, and the overcurrent protection (circuit breaker) is required to be a maximum of 20 amps.

So, you need 14-2 wire from the panel to the condensing unit, and a single-pole 20 amp circuit breaker.

Without having read each post on this thread, the 4 wires going from the outside CU to the indoor air handler are for control wiring. They may, or may not be 115 volts.
 

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This is a 115 volt system with a minimum ampacity requirement of 14 amps, and the overcurrent protection (circuit breaker) is required to be a maximum of 20 amps.

So, you need 14-2 wire from the panel to the condensing unit, and a single-pole 20 amp circuit breaker.

Without having read each post on this thread, the 4 wires going from the outside CU to the indoor air handler are for control wiring. They may, or may not be 115 volts.
You want 12 g with 20A breaker.
 

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You want 12 g with 20A breaker.
Minimum ampacity is 14A, so 14ga wire is appropriate. Max overcurrent protection is 20A, so 20A breaker is appropriate. HVAC units play by different rules.

To the OP.... can you return the unit as "defective out of the box"?
 
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