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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well let's see. I asked the question on a plumbing forum and said I would check the code. Even a person of moderate intelligence would conclude that I do care about what I'm doing. Now I'm not saying that you're not intelligent, but I'm not not saying it either.

Maybe you have a reading problem, maybe you have a comprehension problem, maybe you're just being a condescending douche bag. What ever the case, you should consider a different hobby.
 

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Though my plumbing knowledge is severly lacking.. I see no problem with it. In fact id prefer black water be down system of grey water (call me odd). And I thought as long as vented within a certain matter of feet (which usually includes the whole bathroom) it is covered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I agree. I've read a lot of opinions that fixtures upstream will help removal of the solid waste. The old configuration actually did have the toilet branch downstream of the tub and first vent, but where I want to move it puts everything upstream of the toilet branch. I just want to make sure that's not an issue.
 

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You cannot use sanitary tees on their side or back as drainage fittings
I don't horizontal wet vent so you need to refer to your code for that- or wait for ghost to respond again. He inspects this type of code daily
 
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And you need 3 inch to your vanity is picked up. You are only allowed 4 DFU on a 2 inch wet vent. Also the dry horizontal vent under the shower floor is illegal. All dry vents must rise vertical until 6 inches above the flood level rim of the fixture served. Before turning vertical. All code applied is IPC so look it up. Chapter 9.

Yes they are correct no tees are allowed to be used in that position they must all be wyes. That you will find under chapter 7.

905.3 Vent connection to drainage system. Every dry vent connecting to a horizontal drain shall connect above the center-line of the horizontal drain pipe.
905.4 Vertical rise of vent. Every dry vent shall rise vertically to a minimum of 6 inches (152 mm) above the flood level rim of the highest trap or trapped fixture being vented.


909.3 Size. The dry vent serving the wet vent shall be sized based on the largest required diameter of pipe within the wet-vent system served by the dry vent. The wet vent shall be of a minimum size as specified in Table 909.3, based on the fixture unit discharge to the wet vent.
706.3 Installation of fittings. Fittings shall be installed to guide sewage and waste in the direction of flow. Change in direction shall be made by fittings installed in accordance with Table 706.3. Change in direction by combination fittings, side inlets or increasers shall be installed in accordance with Table 706.3 based on the pattern of flow created by the fitting. Double sanitary tee patterns shall not receive the discharge of back-to-back water closets.



TABLE 709.1
DRAINAGE FIXTURE UNITS FOR FIXTURES AND GROUPS
 

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Well let's see. I asked the question on a plumbing forum and said I would check the code. Even a person of moderate intelligence would conclude that I do care about what I'm doing. Now I'm not saying that you're not intelligent, but I'm not not saying it either.

Maybe you have a reading problem, maybe you have a comprehension problem, maybe you're just being a condescending douche bag. What ever the case, you should consider a different hobby.

You said this

"Building code aside"

That would infer to any reasonable person that you did not care if your installation would meet the plumbing code for your state.

I gave you all the pertinent code issue you have the first one to address is your illegal use of venting. IPC does not allow any dry flat vent under a fixture. That means you need to redesign your bathroom to accommodate to the code. You also should make sure you get all permits and inspections as required by your local building department if any. So check the last post with all code sections that are pertinent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
You said this

"Building code aside"

That would infer to any reasonable person that you did not care if your installation would meet the plumbing code for your state.
I also said that I would check the code. Any reasonable person would infer that means that I do care about meeting code.

I wanted to know if fixtures upstream of a toilet branch was an acceptable practice, then I could research the details on how to do it right. I also wanted feedback on this practice, even if it was legal. Just because something is legal, doesn't mean it's the best way to do it. This is why I said "building code aside".

Don't get me wrong, I do appreciate the help. But this is a DIY chatroom, and DIYers shouldn't be belittled when they are trying to learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I've spent most of the afternoon trying to get smart on this and redrafted my design (below). Please let me know if this looks okay. Also, I don't see any 90 degree connections for 2" to 3". Do I use a 2" to 3" combination wye and cap one end? How do I do this?
 

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You have one toilet 2 lavs and 1 tub now. Is that a shower on the top left?
If it is You run 2 inch to the shower Vent with tee on back in wall. Continue 2 inch to the tub. 1.5 inch to the tub trap. Max 5 foot from 2 inch. Use a wye to pick it up. once at the lavs you will need a 3 by 2 wye with a 3 by 2inch bushing in the end of the wye to the tub. The 2 inch branch to the lavs into your wall behind the lavs with either 2 stacked tees in vertical one for each lav or a cross. You will have to vent off the top again for these lavs.the three inch will need to go in front of your toilet use 2, 45 degree fittings to make the turn. install a wye for the toilet with a 3 inch 90 looking up for the toilet flange.

3 inch must go all the way to the lav pickup on your wet vent.


If the upper left is not a shower. You need 2 inch to the double lavs. 1.5 inch to the tub trap. Again run infront of your toilet install a 3 inch wye flat with a 90 coming up for the toilet. You can bush down to 2 inch to the lavs and the tub.

You must permanent cap all things upstream of the tub because they are now dead ends. Your vent is now coming off the lavs.

Try drawing a line isometric it would make life easier to interpret your work. with pipe sizing's.

Looks like your going to have to get up in the attic and redo vents.
 

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This entire thread is a very good example of why plumbers in most states are required to be licensed which can take 3-5 years of on the job training plus schooling. most people think you can just connect some random pipes together and water will drain out the bottom but there are a lot of physics involved.
 
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