Bring the cable into the switch box and connect the three whites together, the grounds together, and connect the black to the source black along with a pigtail to the switch.
I'm trying to avoid doing it in one run if at all possible. The leng the thewire will have to travel is pretty extensive, and that is the reason I was wondering if it could be done the way I was proposing. If I come off of the switch twice, one run going to the light and the other run going to the receptacle, I can save alot of wire.You could do the receptacle at the end of the run and it would be switch controlled. You could run 3 wire + ground cable from the switch to the light and then two wire to the receptacle and the receptacle would be hot all the time.
Is this what you mean?Bring the cable into the switch box and connect the three whites together, the grounds together, and connect the black to the source black along with a pigtail to the switch.
So an electrician would do this?A+:thumbup:
Ok guys, thanks. I'll ask that it be done this way. That plug is over by the garage door, and the only one on that wall.In the last diagram the receptacle would be hot all the time. It is commonly done.
Not sure what cu my box is for that receptacle or the switch. I figure I will need a little larger one for the switch because of all the wire nuts. It is 12/2 wire..Everything I have is 20amp, switch, receptacles..I assume this is #12 so you will need a 22 cu in box and all the wiring has to be in #12 if it is on a 20 amp breaker. The receptacle will be 100% hot. Code allows lights and receptacle on the same circuit, but the receptacle will have be GFCI.
No, 12-2. Garages and accessory building require GFCI.Why do I need a GFCI receptacle there? Doesn't that require 12/3 wire?
I have a total of five plugs. Do they all need to be GFCI?No, 12-2. Garages and accessory building require GFCI.
The rolling door is a hand operated door.Under the 2008 or later all receptacles in a garage require GFI protection, including the garage door opener receptacle. The GFI must be readily accessible so ceiling mounted is out.
Microsoft paint. Simple, but effective I guess :thumbsup:Just to stray off a bit, What software did you use to make your diagrams?
I want to document my bathroom rewiring and those diagrams would be perfect.
Run the power to the first GFCI receptacle's line terminals and connect the rest of the regular receptacles to the first one's load terminals and the whole chain will be GFCI protected.I have a total of five plugs. Do they all need to be GFCI?