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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This type of blind can be hung inside the window frame or on top of the window outside the frame. I would rather do all the blinds in the house inside the frame because it looks better. But with only a few specific lengths of blinds that I can buy, this may be difficult unless I can cut them to the link that I want them.
 

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It is more time consuming to shorten one than it is to install it.


I agree with the video above except for 3 points:


1. If ready made blinds drop it down the full length outside the window. This aides in your not making an error when cutting.



2. You want one slat to sit on top of the bottom rail for a more finished look. This should be inside the same ladder track as the bottom rail.


3. If your blind is not tracking level after the reduction as it almost is don't take all that crap apart again, simply adjust the cords to level from the other end.


Definitions:
Lift cord is the vertical cords down each side of the blind that you pull on.
Ladder is the double sided strings that the slats rest inside of and on what would be called the ladder rung.
 
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I used a similar approach to the first video, except that I used a C-clamp to compress the slats together, cut it on my table saw, and used my bench top belt sander to round the ends.


I trim the rail using a pair of shears or snips, when required.
 

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By your original post you clearly mean the width of the blinds not the length.
You need to tape them up securely and use the finest* carbide saw blade you can find. A mitre saw works perfectly. When you purchase blinds from a store that is how they cut the width, but they have a clamping mechanism rather than binding them with tape.
Go slow...very slow and you won' t tear anything up.
Even aluminum blinds can be cut this way if you bind them tightly enough.
To keep the material from fraying you must cut through the tape.
*(finest meaning a blade with the most teeth)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
By your original post you clearly mean the width of the blinds not the length.
You need to tape them up securely and use the finest* carbide saw blade you can find. A mitre saw works perfectly. When you purchase blinds from a store that is how they cut the width, but they have a clamping mechanism rather than binding them with tape.
Go slow...very slow and you won' t tear anything up.
Even aluminum blinds can be cut this way if you bind them tightly enough.
To keep the material from fraying you must cut through the tape.
*(finest meaning a blade with the most teeth)
I apparently misinterpreted "length".
Worked great. Surprisingly well actually. I had a 200 tpi plywood blade.
 

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I apparently misinterpreted "length".



That makes two of us. :surprise:



The answer is still yes they can but maybe not as much. I don't think I would do that to my saw blade with metal blinds.


The head and bottom rails may be cut off with a hacksaw or tin snips. The slats can be cut with scissors. You are limited in width reduction by how close the tilter and lift lock are to the end of the blind.



If cutting more than 1/2" you almost have to take half off each side to keep it looking correct.


There is a tool that looks like a big toenail clipper to cut the slats but it is too expensive for DIY.
 
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